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Turns out it was a bad fuel pump. Battery is in trunk so easy to make short jumper leads. Just out of curiosity I put it straight to battery. It still only had 11v at pump. Did same with my other pump. It had 12.2v. Got a uro fuel pump from Autozone. Basically a Bosch 044 replacement. No...

Ok. Will use a long piece if 12g in the morning Plumbing is a trunk mounted 15gal fuel cell. 6an braided line to Bosch pump. 6an all way to aeromotive return style regulator back and dumped into cell. Summit racing screen filter. Engine side is braided 8an from cell to another aeromotive...

Both switches before the pump. Are both getting 12v.

sorry. Like I said. Just literally re did all connections. The new wire is now 12g From dash to just under trunk. So say 8’or so. Still exact outcome as the 14g wire that was on it before. The exact same pump that is on the motor side if things has the exact same pump and relay. Both relays...

Update if sorts I have 14.2v at the battery. Identical pumps. One pump has 12.2 v going to it. The other for nitrous has 10.2 Both are through identical relays. Both are basically set up the same. Both switches have 12.1-12.2v going to each of them. At this point I’m going to think bad...

Both pumps are wired through a relay. Thank you

It just started doing it. I did a test hit the other day with 150 shot and it was great. 10 minutes later. Went for another and then it started acting up. Will try all of the above in the am. Thank you

It’s a 65 amp After roughly adding up a bunch of my amp draws. Just guessing it’s going to need an alternator. Ignition is msd 6al2. So there .7 to .9 amps per 1k rpm. Dual Bosch 044 pumps. 13-15 amps each. Just broke my 4 post battery kill switch. One if the smaller 8-10 size wire was...

Car idles fine. Runs fine. As soon as I turn on nitrous fuel pump. It’s drops to just about 12v on the dot. All my grounds are good and tight. The relay is working fine. All my connections are good. Can’t find the problem Please throw those ideas this way. It drops basically a full bolt...

Awesome. well figured out my problem. So that’s nice lol.

Sorry. My bad. Yes they are locked . Lol excuse the grammar I have MS annnnnnd I smoke a lot of pot. Going to go over all the grounds today Thank you for the info though. Genuinely appreciate it. I’ve never noticed the loud ticking coming from the distributor though. It’s a hot...

Look up 6al2 PROGRAMABLE

Of course I drive it on the street. Lol. Two or 3 times a month I cruise it to work. 17 miles one way from my house. It’s even better with my California 91 oct fuel. Lol. ‍♂️

Just ordered a new magnetic pic up since this one is rusted to hell.

Timing is set with msd 6al2. Digital. . Other than initial and total.

This

Could use new dist cap. But I know that can’t be this problem the cap alone. There is a popping noise coming from the cap while running. Part of the inside of distributor is rusted? I’ll post a pic if I can. The wires are not crossed anywhere. Not even close to anything . The old wires were...

correct. I start it. It runs fine. After a few minutes it’ll act like a switch was turned on and the idle will jump up. And yes. If I turn off ignition and immediately restart. It will do same thing. Run fine for a few minutes. Then start missing again . The car runs a tad rich at idle. But...

First video of it just after starting and running fine. second video is literally 5 minutes later

It’s just so random. But ya tomorrow I’ll throw the old wires on just to see. Wires are compatible. Ran the last set for about 3 years. No issues. Will move the wires from cylinder 6,8 as I ran them around back if valve cover and next to the trigger for the dist. So that may make sense...

Distributor is msd pro billet. Locked out. ?

I disconnected the tach signal wire.. thinking burnt tach or something faulty. Bid same thing. Car has 13 something almost 14 v at idle

So. Car is 440 with msd 6al2 digital. The other day. Changed my plug wires I have the Taylor 409s. After car starts up. Idles normal. After a slight warm up. All of a sudden the rpm will jump up to about 1300-1400. And the tach will jump / rev in reverse and the engine will pop and back...

So. Hopefully some help. I've installed my nitrous express kit ..I now need to o adjust and retard timing. I have program and laptop ,drivers downloaded, but can't get laptop to connect with msd. I open msd graph or pro data prigram. And cant get anywhere else than just opening it. Thanks...

yeah try to set ur timing to 35 at 2800 rpm thats what alot of the books say for optimal performance try that first

have u done anything to the engine. try setting the timing to 35 at 2800 rpm then back the idle screw back down to like 1000 rpm at ilde and see how it does