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Always use more than you "think" you should.

Good deal!

One other thing to check, this could be the Quicktime bellhousings fault, I had to shim the starter about .060" away from bellhousing to get the starter drive to release from the flywheel teeth.

Very possible, but what intrigued me was the fact the PP was like brand new, not a scratch. Those clutches didn't spec a special flywheel from what I have seen. The flywheel was toast, just a fair warning. Hope everyone elses experience is better. I am running RXT disc's this time.

My experience is this: Bought new 440Source "billet" flywheel New ACT PP Used a slightly used Zoom Kevlar disc. Worked good, no problems, except for 3-4 times on a hard 2-3 shift it would slip out of 2000 miles driven. Took it apart for an engine swap, the flywheel looked like a brake rotor...

Sorry I do not, it went with the engine when I went to a 6.1 in trade. I sold the pressure plate to Riddler for his setup.

The flywheel looked like a brake rotor after 1000 miles of not having a brake pad lining.

The surface of mine was roached in 2000 miles while the pressure plate still looked brand new. I would call that a pretty big difference in metallurgy.

An E body/71+ B body is the way to go with a pistol grip.

Definitely don't get the 440 source. It is NOT billet as they say.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hay-11-430/overview/ And it comes with flywheel bolts.

Summit sells American Powertrain stuff. Can't remember if mine is SFI or not though.

Scatter shields were not invented out of kindness.

Its funny how many different ways there are to do the same thing lol. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=173837

Thats great advice except for the fact that Keisler went tits up about 5 months ago.

Nothing is set in stone EVAR!!! LOL! I also use a 7/8" bore Wilwood WITH A FACTORY VIPER SLAVE CYLINDER. I love it, im not a fan of the "feel" of some factory hydraulic clutch setups, particularly Fords, and right or wrong its just not to my taste. Mine FEELS like a clutch should IMO. Your...

I love mine..

That is a good alternative and I considered it. I didn't think I could fit a cylinder down there though. Also the ratio decreases as the pedal is pushed which I was worried about for reliability sake. If it works it works.

Just showing how I did it. Never said it was the only way. I like my pedal ratio with it this way because it FEELS like a mechanical clutch.

Here it is again, simple yet robust since there is some force there the firewall wasnt originally designed for.

If I was maimed or an amputee I would love an automatic. The only people that LOVE automatics usually own a transmission repair shop.....

These transmission dont apply to the DIY'r with that price. But they definitely are the cats meow for the bolt-in or #'s matching crowd. These things have a huge place in the market. NOTHING ELSE bolts in without hacking something, especially in an A-body. Think of the guy with a restored 4...

He is checking off his pre-paid orders list as we speak.

Keisler has a 5 spd that bolts in? This is news to me.

Can I show off mine?

Does it take a while to get the stuff from China or what?

I run one and had to shim the starter about 1/32" to let the starter disengage. I also put in a Quicktime bellhousing at the same time so it was one or the other at fault.

3.91 and 26"

That is a 10.5 judging by the bolt pattern.

Yes it is the same one there is pics of at the beginning of the thread.