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A couple extensions and a wobble worked fine for mine. Drop the crossmember first so you can lower the trans a little to get a better angle on them.

Agreed, just trying to find a way to finish out the cruising season. He likes to take his grand kids for cruises in it.

That was my other thought, he is sending his trans back to A&A for a rebuild, not sure if he'll have it available or not.

Just a quick question. My buddy lost second gear in his trans so I am letting him borrow my 727 that was laying around. His was a manual valve body, mine is not. He doesn't have the linkage for the kickdown installed, since it wasn't needed on his trans. Can he just wire the kickdown...

I also went to a 1350 setup with a conversion joint out back. I bought the yoke and crush sleeve eliminator from Dr Diff, just have to find time to tear into it. Stupid question, tire balance? I had Belle Tire balance mine and got a big vibration at higher speeds. Went to a different shop...

I chased vibes in my Jeep for months years ago. It ended up being the downward angle of the engine/trans was too much. My driveshaft angles were where they needed to be, drove me crazy. I ended up raising the rear of the trans about an inch, and then reshimmed the rear axle and everything...

My local shop only charged $120 to lengthen my driveshaft when I switched to a manual. I'd recommend a small local shop for a better price. (I know, too late now)

Your best bet is to measure it for the actual car, too many variables and parts that might have changed over the years.

If it's the right length it'll fit, but it's probably not needed.

I don't know if it's always needed, but I always smear the outer diameter of just about any seal with some RTV when I am installing it.

I'd replace it anyway since you have it out, but if you are worried about it, why not just take the converter out?

The fuel aspect sucks, Mines the same way. I just switched to an 833 from my 727. Super fun to drive, but being heavy on the throttle my last tank was ~5mpg.

I completely agree with you. I looked into an 8 speed swap behind my big block last year. I had all the parts picked out and prices added up. It was a bit more budget than I wanted to use for a trans swap, but my motor doesn't like staying below ~2300 with a load for very long, so it would...

Ha, try it with 3.91s, I'm pushing 3500rpm going 65-70. It's getting kinda old, I plan to go to a 28" tire and some taller gears this winter to get below 3k at 70.

I looked into this last year and ended up changing plans once I realized the cost. JVX racing has an adapter to get the trans bolted to the big block and Sound German Automotive has the controller needed to run it. You just need a RPM, speed and throttle position input if I remember...

I always ran a Quick Silver, no complaints.

That's how I mounted mine too. I ended up welding a ~1.5" threaded spacer to the outboard side of the clutch pedal arm I have the pushrod mounted to that so it's a straight shot into the master. It would be nicer if the firewall was flat there, I'm gonna fab up some spacer someday to even...

Yep. Just need to figure out a mount for it. Wilwood Disc Brakes

Not a bad setup, I just finished my swap to a hydraulic bearing. Finding a spot for the master was the hardest part, something that mounts under dash would be ideal for packaging. I looked at going that route with a Wilwood setup, it was considerably cheaper, but didn't include made to fit...

Going rate for a gear install around me is usually about $275-350. Without the prior pinion in it, it might be more since they have to actually measure to set the depth, but surely it shouldn't cost that much. I've done a few myself over the years, I think when I switch to 3.23s next winter...

The yoke surface could have a groove worn in it too, allowing it to not seal properly. Or your pinion bearings could be shot.

Your screwdriver trick should work. I just removed mine a couple weeks ago, I was able to wedge a piece of wood between the starter ring gear and the bellhousing to keep it from spinning. I used a pretty long wrench with a quick jerk to break torque on the bolts. When I tried it with a...

Denny's Driveshafts, High Angle Driveline, Tom Woods, and any local shop should be able to build you a driveshaft for that application. You just need a slip joint in the driveshaft.

I've had those girdles on mine for 20+ years. I have nothing to offer, other than I have had no issues with them, still running the same ujoint. About to switch to 1350s and will probably run u bolts or girdles again.

That's quite the crack repair on the trans! There should be a number stamped into the rail just above the pan, take part of that number and enter it into this 10,000 day calendar and it'll tell you the day it was manufactured. Mine was PK 3681054 4385 6669 Chrysler's 10,000-Day Calendar...

Here it is

Google shows it was started on Saturday July 29th, 1961.

6152 is the day it was manufactured in the Chrysler 10,000 day calendar, Thursday, June 1, 1978 An the 2176 is the sequence number of that unit for that day.

Cope makes an adapter to go from a big block to a small block bell housing, I wonder if this would work to adapt the 8HP to it. And then some sort of spacer to fill the gap to the converter.

Thanks for posting this, I have been trying to figure out if there is a way to mount one to a BB (440). I have to pull my 727 anyway to fix all the leaks, it would be awesome to put an 8HP in its place.