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I just went out and measured (well attempted to) pressures. Front left gave me 700psi under what I consider a normal pedal effort and 1400 under a panic stop Front right gave me 800 and 1500, so those make sense. I went to do the rear, removed the bleed screw, put my gauge in, and have zero...

They are from SSBC so they should be stainless.

Yes, it's a 440, here's pic from cruising this weekend. I was trying to look around on here for the pedal ratio to confirm, I have seen someone say it is 6.5:1, but when I threw a quick tape on mine, it was closer to 5.5:1, a little lower than what it should be for manual brakes. I'm...

The pedal is hard and sits at the top of the travel, there is no spongyness to it when I start to brakes. The hardliners are about 2 years old and the flex lines are all braided stainless, also just a couple years old. I do have a line lock on the front circuit, I could remove it and see if...

The pads were properly bed, when I switch to the Power Stop pads, I'll make sure to follow their procedure. I don't expect to lock up the rears since they are 315mm wide ET Streets, the fronts are 215 BFG GForce Comp TAs, a grippy tire. I had read that too about the master, I currently have...

72 Duster 440, 4 Speed 215s up front and 315s put back. For front brakes I am running the SSBC 11" 4 piston disc conversion, which I think just use KH calipers, with their upgraded pads, it have a set of Power Stop pads ready to install. A153 Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit, Mopar Non Power...

You don't still have a set of those laying around do you?

There is nothing really stopping it from rearward up travel, just the brake light switch. Mine can be lifted a little bit, but if I remove the brakelight switch, it can be lifted a good amount. It sit's right where it needs to though, and once i touch the pedal, the brakes begin to apply.

I had the same issue.

It wouldn't be too hard actually, since I know the correct length due to having the adjustable one in there.

Good to know, the E-B body ones are longer. I'll see how my setup works, but if I have any issues, I'd be interested in one of those longer ones, since I have a 2 bolt master with the adapter/spacer to mount it.

That's what I figured, oh well, it should be all set now.

I have that same setup as well, but the shoulder bolt was too large of a diameter to fit in the new brake pedal I put in. Is there a different size for an auto vs manual trans setup?

Wasted many hours doing that. But I've probably been one of those nitwits before too. Lol Or the ones that link to a semi-relevant thread which has a link to another that has a link to another that kind of answers it. Just link to the final thread not the others that refer to it.

The worst is when it's years old and there is no response stating what the fix was when you know they figured it out at some point.

I just remembered I didn't post the solution, I always try to in order to help the 'next guy'. I tried to use my stock bolt, but the hole in my new brake pedal is smaller for some reason and it wasn't even close to fitting. I can't get a drill in there to drill it out in the car, and there...

Follow up - So it wasn't the pushrod length, I actually made it a little longer once I figured out the problem. The bolt that goes through the pedal arm and the push rod was causing some binding. When I had it tight enough to not have any slop between the pedal arm and the pushrod, it was...

Agreed, this is what I went with on mine. The parking brake even works perfectly with the stock handle. I left my green bearings in, when I switched over to his brake setup. No issues.

Agreed, I ran a 1 1/32" master with mine for a while, it worked fine, just harder to push the pedal.

Are the pistons in the calipers a lot larger than the Dr Diff ones were? Maybe your master is pushing enough fluid to move the pistons in the new calipers.

I use this tool, I've made over 100 flares with it over the years, never had one leak. Eastwood On Car Brake Line Flaring Tool for 3/16 Tubing I also use this to clean up the ends of the tube before flaring it. Eastwood Tubing Deburring Tool

I guess I didn't put that in there, they are manual. But there is no provision to hookup a spring.

So even though I have room to bring the pedal up higher by hand, the rod could be too long? I guess I thought if there was still room for the pedal to move, it wasn't too long. I guess I was wrong, again! I'll loosen the jam nut on it and try to shorten it a tad. Thanks

I'll start by saying everything in the brakes is less than 2 years old. I just swapped to a manual trans, and now that everything is back together I notice my brakes are dragging to the point where it's very hard to push the car on flat surface. If I lift up the brake pedal just a bit...

Mine also does not have a retainer for the brake push rod, but it seems like the brae light switch would keep it from moving too far to fall out. I do see that Dr Diff sells a retainer, I might grab one and install it while my brake pedal is apart. Mopar Manual Brake Push-Rod Retainer...

Has it gone up a lot? I've bought from Cass many times and shipping was always pretty reasonable.

Huh, Mine never had one of those, I guess I'll be ordering one as well before I put the master back into the car.

My buddy is a mechanic and has a Snap On tool that measures it.

I put some PowerStop pads and rotors on my daily driver, it was a huge improvement. I'm going to look into a set for my Duster, I know they have rear pads, not sure they have a D11 equivalent front pad. Make sure your brake fluid is good too. Rated for high enough temperature, and no...

I think you quoted the wrong person. I'm not sure, I don't run that valve. My front and rear are separate, I don't use a factory block, I use an adjustable one from Wilwood.