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This is how mine came. I gotta move the spring still because it should be where the end of the rod is.

Here is an illustration

I wanted to check if my 904 is original and #s matching. Where would the number be stamped? I'm getting my engine and trans rebuilt now. I know the engine matches but not sure on the trans. Thanks

Thanks. Yeah I talked to the local Mopar trans guy that Rob mentioned. So I may try this. I might just pull the motor and trans out. I still need to paint the engine bay, replace the motor mounts, and fix some things on the engine.

Ok thanks.

I was thinking about removing and installing it to save money. We have a lift, so, I was thinking about getting a transmission jack. If I were to do this on the lift, what would be the best steps? Unbolt uppers then lift the car up and unbolt the lower ones? Will the engine want to tilt back...

How about the torque converter? I might not re-build the engine for another year or two and it will be even longer by the time I get the rear end gears done. Most cams obviously have specific specs for these two. The ones that interest me require a 2200+ to 2500+ stall. Is it better to leave...

Wow thats pretty good. Yeah it would be good to find someone Mopar friendly as he mentioned. I have mine scheduled to go in next week but open to any other options.

Thanks, the engine pan? Is it pretty simple to do this myself later with the transmission in?

I could but would want to have someone around helping. I've been quoted around $1500 with decent parts (includes them removing and installing). Then around $2000+ for even better parts with kevlar bands. I'm on a budget but want to have the trans built right to handle the engine later when I...

Thanks I will check into those.

As much as I would like to rebuild it myself, I decided to take the Scamp in to get the transmission rebuilt next week. It has the 904 with the 318. Is there anything specific to ask or watch out for? Specific shift kits and maybe a new stall converter? I know it should match the cam but I...

Awesome, was this including installation and removal or did you bring it in?

I've been quoted around $1200-$1600 or so depending on if it needed performance parts.

Yeah good points on the flush. I have heard flushes messing engines up because they strip all of the oil from little areas. Not sure what they use for transmissions but can see it happening also. Yeah the motor mounts are all cracked and look original. I don't think it has ever been rebuilt...

Are you checking the fluid the right way? I think the proper way is to start the car, while you're holding the brake, shift it into every gear for a few seconds then leave it in neutral and check the fluid while it is running.

I have a book on the 727 and these are the things it says when there is no upshift: - Fluid too low - Throttle linkage adjustment - Kickdown band adjustment - line pressure too high or low - Governor malfunction or sealing rings - Valve body malfunction - Sticking accumulator, broken...

Yea may be ready for a rebuild. I wonder if a transmission service, flush, and band adjustment would help at all. I am still reading and learning all about this thing.

I took the linkage off and it still didn't want to go into 3rd. Tried manually shifting it and it didn't make a difference in 2nd or drive when up to speed. I drove up to about 65-70 and it was at about 3500+ rpm, so looks like it stays in 2nd. Any other things I should look into? Thanks...

Thanks again, I will test it tomorrow.

Thanks will try that and see what happens. I attached an image of the carb area. So it would be the linkage on the far right correct? This one is really loose.

Just got this scamp a couple months ago and I don't think it is shifting into 3rd. I checked the fluid with the car running in neutral and it is full. What else should I check? I read in another thread that it can be the linkage adjustment near the carb. How should I check this? Also, when it...