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Sorry, I should vave been more clear. What I meant to ask was, are there any differences between a regular 904 that would have come in an Abody ( 1969 barracuda for example) and a 904 that would have come in a vehicle with a lock up converter?

Are lock up 904's the same as an abody 904? Gear ratios same ?

Can a 904 converter be used on a A500 without lock up?

Are higher stall converters available in lockup version for the A500, say 3000 to 3500 range?

I would try to narrow down if the play is coming from the bearing (outer race) moving in the housing, the bearing (inner race) moving on the axle or play in the bearing (movement between the inner and outer race).

Features: Low RPM Cruising Great Shift Quality Dyno Tested Stand Alone Electronic Controller Lockup Torque Converter with Optional Stall Speeds No Tunnel Cutting Found it. ^^^^^^ Thank you

I didn't see where it said "no tunnel cutting required" in the link. Did I miss it or did you contact them to find this out?

If I remember correctly re-drilling doesn't leave much materal between the outside of the studs and the od of the axle flange.

If dr. diff knows your plans he would have sent you axles with offset to match your backing plates. Be aware your overall width drum to drum will be a little wider than a factory stock small bolt pattern abody 8 3/4. If you're having your housing narrowed you can correct for that if you want...

Is this a housing that already has big bolt pattern axles that you are having narrowed?

Which drums and backing plates did you order?

If I remember correctly there are 2 options for big bolt pattern axles. 1. Axles for using stock abody small bolt pattern backing plates and drums (slotted to fit big bolt pattern). Using a stock small bolt pattern housing width will result in a stock small bolt pattern flange to flange overall...

Do the rules say you have to use a torque converter? I ran a direct drive coupler for a chevy in place of the converter. I drilled the LA crank bolt pattern between the chevy bolt holes. Also had to open up the register hole to fit the mopar crank. You will need a quicktime flexplate with a ring...

Do the rules for your class say that you have to use an automatic transmission?

This post is a good example of "counter productive".

Just found this youtube video on pinion angle.

Sounds right. The .5 to 3 degees is what's recommended. Keep in mind working angle is dependent on the speed of the driveshaft. Think rock crawler vs race car. The higher the driveshaft speed the less working angle you can get away with. If you want to learn about u-joint working angles and how...

Here is a link to a video of my circle track car (metric 4 link) on our dyno to see and measure pinion wrap. First let me say that the shock is not bent. The lens on the gopro makes it look that way. The 3" mark is the at rest zero. I know I should have marked it differently. Anyway, the rod...

Loving every minute of it.

True, but if we got rid of every thread that asked a question that could have been lookup or answered somewhere else there wouldn't be much of a forum left. Sometimes you hve to put up with stuff you don't like to enjoy the part you do.

I think the problem is when when people don't understand the difference between 5 degrees relative to the ground and 5 degrees relative to the centerline of the crankshaft. The numbers we read on the protractor or angle finder are relative to the ground. You can say it doesn't matter and be...

In my opinion what old man mopar said is right but he left out the math part. After you have the pinion and crank shaft centerline parallel to each other measure the pinion angle relative to the ground. For example: If the crankshaft centerline is angled down (from front to rear) 2 degrees...

The angle needs to be calculated relative to the crankshaft centerline angle. Opinions differ as to how much this should be. It should be front of pinion lower than parallel to the crankshaft centerline. If someone thinks this is wrong jump in.

Sorry if I ruffled your feathers. I know you are trying to help. But you can see where a person could be confused or mislead by your post. I think you would agree the part about the rear end being upside down was key to the information you provided. Nobody is perfect. We all make mistakes. I...

I didn't see here where the rear end was upside down when you measured it.

So when you say you always set your rear ends with the front of the pinion pointing down toward the ground at a 5 degree angle relative to the ground this is with the rear end upside down?

So with rear end out of the car and the spring pads level to the ground the front of the pinion is angled down 5 degrees relative to the ground?

When you set your pinion at 5 degrees, is that measured relative to the ground? If not what is the 5 degrees relative to?

So the bottom is correct? It looks like the crank centerline and the pinion are both at zero degrees relative to the ground.

At what degree is the pinion at when it is what you call "up" from the driveshaft?