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on my Duster, on the inside firewall I added another block of connectors (it has female spade connectors in it) that I tied into the fuse block. It has a few of each of full-time power and keyed power, so when I want to hook something up I just connect it there.

that's exactly the same as my Grant hub...

just realized the two warning lamps aren't lighting either- hadn't even noticed that until it was pointed out here (too preoccupied with the gauges). so if I read the schematics right (which is a long shot for me lol) the power comes IN @ connector 'N' on the firewall and splices to the...

none at the wire (or anywhere I can trace the wire back-which seems to be to that relay above the kick panel... edit- no power at the other side of the relay (I guess that's what it is) with the two blue wires going in either. btw, I ran a wire from a keyed spot directly to the hot side of the...

ok...can anyone tell me where exactly power is supposed to be sent to the IVR? It looks like it should be a blue w/white stripe wire @ the 12 o'clock position on the round connector that plugs into the cluster (?). I have no power there (nowhere on that connector period). I traced that...

I see... does it sound like IVR to you? (again, there's absolutely no reaction in either gas or temp gauge when the key is turned-most of the search results I found mentioned the gauges pegging when the IVR went). If it's a bad connection like you mentioned earlier, is there something else I'd...

yep sorry should have specified I meant my '72 standard gauge assembly. Is there a quick check for the IVR? (I take it one side would have 12v and the other would have 5) thanks guys.

at all (no reaction whatsoever when I turn the key on) but the ammeter still works, is it (or can it be) the IVR? I'm supposing the ammeter could be independent since it's voltage-related and maybe doesn't go through the IVR like the others, but I'm just guessing there.

I don't have a picture, but if you get up under the dash you'll see it attached by the brake pedal assembly- it's a white plastic piece with a spring and a wire with sort of a pigtail on it. I want to say it's attached to the mounting for the steering column, but I'm not positive. If you follow...

fusible link...

in my Scamp, the only thing the map light switch did was turn the useless little light under the dash on the passenger side. Not sure if that was what it was supposed to do or not...

my Duster used to do the same thing back in the '90s, it felt like the tranny/converter was locking up and stalling the car-would start up again right away, and never stalled while the car was moving. Turned out to be the ignition module.

One day I checked all the lights in my Duster, and the left brake light wasn't working. I spent about 2 hours trying to track down the problem, and finally realized after I about gave up and turned the key on that the signal light switch wasn't centered:banghead: now I know the way it works lol.

I think the orientation looks correct-just needs to be higher like TB said- or where you want it, like 67 said:D

my Duster used to just die while sitting at red lights(early- 90s). It would lock up and stall as if you had just let the clutch out while holding the brake down. But it's an auto... It would run fine other than the occasional stall. After messing with it for quite a while, finally tried a new...

I'm wondering this too (and, having no idea what the vehicle in question is, does it have points?)

that's the distributor I have on my Duster- my brother got one for one of his barracudas, and he liked it so much that he put them on ALL of his cars. Even bought one for the 440 he's building for his sport fury 'vert, now that they have a BB version. Works great, but you need good voltage to...

joe- the tach has a metal body, so I'm guessing the screw is grounding the system to make the tach work (it's an old hole- the tach was mounted there years ago, but I just put it back in)- I started wondering myself if maybe the screw hit a wire, but it's only about a quarter-inch long machine...

ok, put my Sun supertach 2 back into the Duster. Wired everything up, then the car wouldn't start. Turned over fine but not firing. I went out and tripped the solenoid to check for spark, and this time it fired right up. Then I realized (after it had warmed up for a couple minutes, so was more...

couldn't the ballast resistor (on its way out) do that too? Gets hot and dies?

in my Duster, I had a switch for the electric fuel pump hidden at the e-brake handle. (well, not really hidden, but not that noticable either)