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Honestly, I don't know. I've have had no luck sticking RTV to a moist surface. But I don't use RTV for this job. I have an ancient nearly used up can of Indian Head Gasket Shellac that I've been saving from the 70s, just for these jobs. BTW, those spacer-washers would be just about right to...

The P/S bracket requires the 1/4 inch longer bolts. The other side gets the shorter ones. When no P/S pump is on the engine, all 4 bolts are the same. Do not install the longer bolts on the P/S side without the triangular bracket as they will drive into the cylinder and crack it! You were...

Do you have power steering?

IMO if a painted radiator leads to an overheat situation, then your cooling system was already borderline.

Well hopefully your fan is not spinning backwards!

After I loosened up the ring gaps, my Eddie-headed 367 has run at least; > 3 different cams from 249@.050 > 223> the current 230; and >Compression ratios from 10.7 to 11.3, currently 11ish; and > with accompanying Cylinder Pressures approaching 195psi; and > five different carbs from 500> 600>...

I have a forty-over 360 with alloy heads, set up at about 11/1 Scr. It has run three different cams. It is in a 68 Barracuda with a 4 speed. I used to cruise it at 65 =3000 rpm, but she used to run hot; and I couldn't cure it. So I got to thinking that either the pistons were tight or the rings...

I once had an overheat issue that could not be solved in any usual way. I finally tore the engine down and increased, both the skirt clearance, and the ring gaps; problem solved.

Here are a few tricks; 1) If you have an automatic transmission; > you can run plenty of Idle-timing, so long as the engine stays out of detonation at stall. I mean the engine will like a lot. You can run as much as 25 or more degrees; until either of; the starter gives up, or until the engine...

ahA! Don't you just luv it when an idea just pops into your head; I sure do. keep me posted.

Well, if I had that intake, I would plumb that hose over to the other side of the intake, close to where it has traditionally always been; and cap the inlet on the pump. This will equalize the water pressure across the stat house. I read a Book in the which Smokey Yunich talks about the crazy...

In the above pic, the one from your first post; with the stat closed, all the water flowing thru the block deadheads at the stat, but the suction side of the pump being at a lower pressure than the intake, picks up the water at the bypass, and sends it back thru the engine for another trip...

I only use it because the very first time I encountered one, it was on a new Ford Pick up, 2002 IIRC, and that thing was doing a smoking good job. As I remember it, at lunch time I went straight to the dealer and got one; and 20 years later, it is still working. It is a thermostatic type. Had...

another thing you can do to see the effects of adding idle-timing is to, with an IR gun, watch the temp of the exhaust in the headers, of the warm and running engine.. Pick the hottest spots within a few inches of the heads, on various headers, and mentally mark those spots. Check and record...

Atta Cruising speed that produces 2400 to 2800rpm, the ignition timing will want to be in the window of 46 to 56 degrees. The trans should have it's own cooler. Good luck with the electric fans. make sure they are rotating in the right direction. BTW the thermostat sets the minimum temperature...

IMO, this is real simple; If your rad is dropping the temp 30degrees, from top to bottom, then your cooling system is working exactly right. Go to Note-5 If only 20*, it could be better but as soon as the car is moving even just 10 mph, the temp should be dropping. There are several things you...

EDIT; My T-clutch is out of the Haden catalog, listed for an early 2000s Ford Pick-up. I think it was classified as a HDPlus. Here we are at least 19 years later and it is still working.

At 3500 your Cruise timing should be at least 50>56 degrees. I'm gonna say something that is gonna sound crazy; Once the stat opens, my 367 runs right between 205>207* measured by IR gun, at the hottest place I can find, on or near the stat house. I have never seen her run more nor less, no...

BTW if the temp sensor is NOT in the water, it will NOT measure the temp of the water. It will give try to give you the temp of the air above the water, but it's really lousy at doing that. So if you have used a stack of adapters to make your sensor "fit" well there yago. fix it. If you wait...

Have you checked it with a back up tester like a water thermometer or an IR gun? Have you tested the rad temperature? The stat sets the minimum water temperature, so it's job is to stay CLOSED until it's calibration point. It doesn't care about the rad or the clutch. But it does care about the...

Mopar used to offer a fan and clutch thru the Direct connection catalog. It did nothing for my engine. Here's what my 4.040bore, 400hp, 367 has run since year 2000/2001 or so, and with no issues (A833, 3.55s, GVod) >Milodon 8 vane pump, with it's anti-cavitation plate, and big pump...

Post #2 says it . But I'll add that you need to make sure that your vacuum advance is working and pulling in at least mid-teens. However; I had one engine that did not respond properly no matter what I did. I tore it down, put another .001 skirt clearance into her and opened up the ring gaps...

360 4bbl here with alloy heads,; Also a 4speed; but with 3.55s now, (used to run 4.30s. ) First cam; I ran was the ~249@.050(292/292/108mopar) ~.540lift and and at 11.3Scr Second cam: I ran a 223@.050, .539/.549 lift IIRC, initially also at 11.3, bur reduced to ~10.7Scr Third and current cam...

Recore the one you have. The metal tanks will last practically forever. Mine is a out of a 73 Dart 318 auto. Even the patches have patches. She is still cooling the 430hp 367 under the hood, idling in the parking lot all day.

not stupid at all .... which is why it made it to the top of my list.

Your fans are rotating in the correct direction ...... right? Do this; At idle and over 180*F First check the temps of the water across the rad from where the coolant goes in to where it leaves, looking for about a 30 degree difference. If you get close to this; STOP! I'll bet you a box of...

Nobody knows. The factory temp gauge is notoriously slow and not really tied to reality. By the time it tells you the engine is hot, you will know it in other ways, like the steam billowing from under the hood. Buy an IR gun; it will tell you what you need to know. BTW; since we're talking, the...

as easy as the rad is to RnR I don't see a problem doing that; I mean you don't even have to remove the easily accessible bolts. Beats the heck out of skinned knuckles, and one-flat-at-a-time wrenching..

Just saying, the taste of antifreeze is unmistakably sweet. Jus asking, were the decks shaved? I took a bunch off my decks and the job was crap; on the one side, the surface went downhill towards the firewall. On the other it was downhill to the rad. And neither side was 90* to the other. So...

Correction; the 4 outer threaded holes on the edelbrock heads are supposed to be blind, If you didn't pressure test before you pulled the intake, and it leaks again............ By the pressure pattern, I don't see anything wrong at that juncture. BTW; IMO those FelPros are foolproof, I have...