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It is common for those to stay/stick on the fast-idle cam, due to either the cam sticking, or the choke is faulty, or the choke is not getting enough heat. Try a penetrating lube on the cam. If that don't do it remove and polish the pivot screw, reinstall it dry. I have, many a time, zip-tied a...

Ok I'm confused; Why would you run that 296* cam at 1500rpm for so many hours? What were you thinking? You wanna bet your engine oil smells like gas? ------------------------------------------------------- Here's what I would do; A) at your cruise-rpm of 1500 rpm; check your ignition timing...

On the street with street gears, yes ; If it spins both tires all the way thru First gear, then it's probably too big. If it don't spin the tires in Second gear, then you won't get to shift-rpm until maybe over 80 mph. With 3.23s say; 65= ~4200 in Second at WOT so then, in that situation, you...

OK Ok , I'll tell; There comes a time in the working of the engine, when not much vacuum exists inside the intake, and more blow-by is being created than the normal PCV route can handle. When this happens, The CC gasses, under increasing pressure, have to go somewhere, and backwards, up and out...

You better get after it cuz oil in the chambers leads to detonation. Are you familiar with how that system is supposed to work?

@Mattax Post 15, is IMO, exactly right, good job.

Look, This is a daymn fine STREET 318. This is NOT a race motor. Op has a 3000 stall, on a high-pressure 318 with Magnum heads, in, I'm assuming, a 67 Barracuda. With this combo, the engine is very lightly/almost extremely lightly loaded, below that stall; and, I took the liberty of...

With a 3000 stall, the PV-calibration won't hardly matter. As to 1.7 rockers; IMO, at this power level, they're not gonna do much for ya. If I had them, sure, I'd be tempted to install them, but I sure wouldn't rush out and buy them. Sounds like a fun combo.

Post #4 for the win! Install a PV plug and go drive it. Watch the gauge, as you do some gentle roll-ons. Correlate the power-sag to the gauge. then Install whatever it points to; as @hunt2elk says probably up around 10.5 or more. If you have been running a 7.5PV or less, you will find that now...

the tricks are 1) is to get your engine to run at one temperature within a very narrow band, and 2) to get the inlet air temperature swing also normalized, and then tune it for that. Even if you could get your engine down to 180, as soon as it gets to 190, it needs a new tune, and at 200 again...

I run mine at from 205>207 by IR gun, on purpose, with a Carter engine-mounted, HO mechanical pump; and a one piece fuel-line from pump to carb, the filter being at the back. It has no percolation issues. I did have hot-running issues in the beginning, which I traced to too-tight Ring-gaps. The...

Do a fuel volume test. the volume test will tell the tale. You need about half a pound per hp per hour. and fuel weighs about 6 pounds per gallon. So then, if you really had 450 hp, you would need, (450 x .5 pound )/6=37.5 gallons per hour. your pump will need to supply 37.5gallons...

Whatever you do, do not run the engine without some form of CC breathing else the pressure will wind it's own way out. If yur lucky it will just blow the dipstick out. If yur really unlucky it will blow the rear cam-plug out, and then, to fix that, you gotta drop the trans.

Yeah well, that may be true in this instance, But, the vapor canister is about as maintenance free as it gets, it keeps my garage from stinking, keeps my 87E10 from going stale in the tank right away, the vapors may contribute to mpgs, and, I always have at least one or two kicking around anyway.

You could always install a vapor canister and make it a closed system.

My ancient 360 has always been very happy with 87E10. But I designed it to be. However, as indicated in above comments, she's not particularly excited to fire up on two-week old gas. Nor on last fall's gas either, even if was stabilized. So what I have been doing is keeping a small bottle of...

And why would they be at 020 versus the standard .050? IDK. I almost got caught too.

Some of you guys need to learn to read that cam card, on the left is advertised on the right is at .020 tappet. 020 tappet at 1.5 ratio, is .030 valve. and .300 x 1.5=.450 valve and .030 plus .450 = .480 case closed. ________________________________ I like that cam. With plenty of cylinder...

Rusty said; "In order for the power valve to introduce fuel to the engine, the throttle blades must be open to pull fuel out of the boosters." AJ says; Oh good then we can just skip looking for a flooding condition, and don't have to go down that rabbit hole..

With the engine Off; Check to make sure the oil level in the CC is below the crank, and Defeat the Vacuum advance system, and make sure your PCV system is plumbed to underneath the Primary throttle valves, and is functioning correctly, and if you have power brakes, Clamp the line shut; and...

Have you verified your TDC mark yet, and checked the timing? Most Engines that I have worked on, will pick up extra rpm with extra timing, up to somewhere around 20/25 degrees, or sometimes even more. If your Vcan is plumbed to the intake, those have a capacity to go to 22/24 degrees with mods...

try 12 degrees, reset the mixture screws to 3/3.5; decrease the idle speed to 750, then try adding some bypass air. I used to do this by drilling a small hole in the top of the PCV valve, then adjusting the speed screw as may be required for idle speed and quality. When I got it right, I...

what's your idle-timing? I have a Hughes cam; 230/237/110 @.050 tappet, with a lil more lift than the Comp. I can idle my 367 down to 550 in gear (manual trans) and pulling, with just 5*advance. On a good day, I can get her down to 500. The advertised on this cam is 276/286 @ .008 tappet. My...

Blow-by entering the engine, at WOT, when laden with oil, can produce or contribute to, detonation. Most of my classic cars had that hose on the outside of the filter, and the filter-house had an oil-collection ring there, which had to be cleaned out periodically, on engines with hi-mileage.

You say that like it was a fact. But that breather may be a sealed unit. and if it has a hose nipple on it, that is the norm. and so The fact is that as engines age, they may produce a lotta blow-by, especially at WOT, and just a few seconds could blow that smallish line right off the...

I was pretty sure that you were aware that at WOT, CC pressure will build, which will slam the PCV shut, which will force the CC fumes to flow up into your breather and from there into the Air filter house. Usually those fumes will be oil-laden and make a mess in your housing. But maybe your...

yabut., is that system gonna flow enough backwards at WOT after 13/14 seconds, to not blow the dipstick out.. or worse

those choke-rods can be bent to fit, I do it all the time. And the tension can be adjusted in the same way. Glad you got it figured out tho.

no, that is the way they are made. at least the later ones. something is just sticking In the past, when I couldn't figure out what was sticking, I just Zip-tied a nut to the choke down-rod, which made it heavy enough to drop on it's own. What you can try, which is where I found the stiction...

I did not know that; But looking at this I can imagine a spread-bore of some kind on there, without too much work. The reasons I like a spread-bore for this combo are; it's already a 10.8 engine and the small solid cam is gonna have an early closing intake, which means those two together, are...