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If I understand you right, yur saying that with the cups off, the joint will not slip between the cup-holder saddles of the yoke; is that right? Made in China? Those guys just don't care; for them, it's all about money. Just make sure the two saddles are parallel to eachother and that an...

Ask me anything about installing or running the GVod. I installed mine in 2004. I would NOT say that is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but with a cammed-up SBM, it's close. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Since I am a streeter, if I had to do it again; I would just put a smaller...

lol

Just b-a-s-h it! But your Z-bar should be installed at 90* to the car centerline from top view, and parallel to the ground from the rear. Then the downrod from the pedal should go straight thru the center of the oval hole in the firewall, to meet the lever welded to the Z-bar. Finally, the...

Speaking about many gears; Earlier I ran the A833od with a GearVender behind it and splitting gears, making 7 progressive gears. For a while, I ran it with 4.88s, which, in double over, ran like 2.70s .. But I soon settled on 4.30s, for 65= 1930 rpm. In the end the 13.28 parade gear was too...

Depending on your torque output, and specific build; the A/F body A833od unit, a 3+1, is a great option. What I mean is this; the ratios spreads are a little wide, and better suited to engines with a broad flat torque curve. Like low-compression factory engines. As you put more and more cam...

Yeah, Ima thinking technique. Here's something you can try . drive the car in first gear, up to a speed that makes 2500 rpm on the tach , look at the speedometer and make a mental note of the speed. I'm just guessing but say it 20 mph. Now, you will forever know that for zero speed difference...

Ok so with the car moving. I assume you know how synchronizers work, but humor me. The two FOUR working parts of the Synchronizers are; the Brass rings the Brake cones the three struts, and the Energizer springs. If any of those parts fail to do their jobs, You have problems, and a couple of...

Hang on boys we , or maybe just me, needs more information. To whit; You said; "So I parked my 68 Barracuda last fall but before I did, I was experiencing difficulty getting the transmission to shift back to first gear from 2nd gear." So I ask; 1) is this with the car moving? Now it's a...

IDK what size clutch your 1971 Demon with a 198/A230 has, but since the 198 is the smallest slanty available in '71, I'd guess it has the smallest clutch; But I'm just guessing, lol

As to the CFII, I agree, too harsh for my 367 street-combo. I pulled it out in favor of the 100% factory 340 disc. And yes, Like Inertia in post 28, I installed washers, under the CFII PP. Now it's a dump it and go deal at low rpm, and the flyweights clamp solid some where north of 3000 rpm...

I did this mod to the front only of an aluminum case that I used to use before I bought one of Jamie's HD alloy cases which comes set-up for a light press-fit. My 367 slammed that thing for about 3 >4 years mercilessly and when I retired it, I still had to pound the cluster-pin out.

I Never liked 'em. They force my wrist into an awkward twist. and, IMO, they are out of scale too-big for an A-body. I once drilled and tapped a Hurst T-handle on the big end, and put the Line-Loc on the top. I thought it was a good idea but it turned out not to be, again because of the twist...

It's aluminum. You just weld it up and make it anything you need. If you don't have the appropriate "locknut", you will need some HD loc-tite, else you have no way of securing the orientation. But worse is that if it moves on the 2-3 shift, your knuckles will mash the dash. IMO, 1) those look...

I guess I'll put the beer away then........ lol.

The ones in the pic with the shoes in it actually look right to me. You may not have the right shifter plate, there are several to choose from and only one is correct for an A-body. Brewers has the pics. If you like, since yur only an hour and change from me, you can come down and see how your...

I used to put the highest-sitting brass on Second, cuz I always wore that one out first, lol. First gear gets the lowest-sitting cuz the rpm differential is only whatever your idle-speed is, say 750 rpm, and I don't like first gear to work too good, as it just makes engaging it more difficult...

The only input shaft, since 1970, that I have ever replaced had all the teeth ripped off it.................. by me, lol. I can make those clutch-teeth, in the pic, fully operational in under 5 minutes. But fixing the slider takes a lil longer, and the brass ring will need a new home. I rarely...

Solve the pedal-height first, and you will likely solve the freeplay issue. At rest; The clutch pedal pad should be about an inch higher than the Brake-pedal pad height when the brake pedal is properly engineered. The brake pedal should park, way at the top, tight to the dash; I'll guess 7>8 or...

I stand corrected, and have been doing it wrong since about 1971.

That special nut is supposed to be a self-locking nut, and if there is a big fat washer on the engine side of that washer, then the flat side of the nut should face the washer, and the second nut should not be there. After so many years, the self-locking feature may have died and the second nut...

Here are my experiences; Not saying what you should run. Back in about 2002 or so, I got in my head to run synthetic manual trans oil. My goals were quicker shifts and reduced Cluster-pin wear. My A833 was running DextronII Well, with the synthetic, I got a lot of gear clash, and the trans was...

You can stop the pedal wherever you want and then reset the freeplay. By setting the "freeplay" you are actually adjusting the "clutch departure which is usually set to around .080; but this can vary with clutch type and personal preference. Departure is the only measurement to be concerned...

I have never run that small shaft. I have been running the A833s almost continuously since 1970, in various bodies. Since I put 1350s on my driveshaft, I haven't had any more U-joint failures. Initially, on this my final hotrod, I had 7290s, but the rearend had a 7260, with an adapter joint...

Brewers has what you need. Read the history of the A833 on their site. http://www.brewersperformance.com/category09.php

That would be the spline-count on the output end of the Mainshaft. A-body A833 overdrive boxes can be found at Swap meets in either flavor. the slanty-boxes have the 904-sized shaft. the 318 boxes can be found in either 904 or 727 sized shafts As to Non-od boxes, IDK but; All performance V8...

For a streeter, those two boxes are so close, it's hardly worth thinking about. 2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00/ splits of .722-.729-.714 versus 2.47-1.77-1.34-1.00/ splits of .717-.757-.746. This is because, Second gear will get you into speeding territory after about 5.5 seconds, and before you hit...

Hyup; 3.08 x 3.21= 9.89 right in the thick of "pretty Peppy". I think 73 was the last year for lightweight Dusters. I had a 73 Duster as well, but an auto. When it comes to short-wb cars I have had at least one of nearly every year from 65 to 80, except years 75 and 76.... it took me a while...

From the looks of that one thrust washer, I'd be checking over the case pretty closely, and resetting the endplay as may likely be required. Your case may need repairs to prevent that washer from spinning again. BTW the A833 overdrive, is a 3plus1, with similar ratios to the Slanty A230 ...

Seriously; you broke third gear on the street? For my street car that 2-3 shift is at like 85mph and the tires are still spinning; What's your traction secret? You gotta have more than them slapper bars.......