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Don't overthink it. I changed all of them with air pressure and a cheap Harbor Freight valve compressor in an hour or two. I'm sure rope works just as well, and as Dan said above, it will be quieter than having your 15-year-old Craftsman oilless air compressor rattling away in the background.

I think we've all been there and feel for you...you spend a bunch of time and follow all the instructions, and you fire it up with no difference. Ugh! Take a breather and regroup. Good luck!

Vacuum Test - A Vacuum Test Can Tell You More Than You Think

There is a vacuum port connected to the number 6 runner on my 225 that runs the heater controls under the dash. Any chance you could have some kind of a vacuum leak? What's connected to that port on your car? Have you done a vacuum test?

That's amazing how much better the 170 does on the highway. Your experience with the 225 mirrors mine; I get around 18 or so on the highway, but my car originally had a worn out 170. I guess the little bit of extra power is a fair enough tradeoff.

Here's a good thread devoted to the topic: Spark Plugs for Slant Six? You can't eliminate the spark plug tubes because those holes are open to oil; that's why there are seals on them. Before you replace your plugs, you may want to get a set of drool tube seals. See the link below: 1974...

As a guy who drives a '53 Buick with a 263 straight-8, I can say that aside from looking and sounding cool, you'll be bucks ahead with a more common engine. Parts for the Buick are not HARD to find, but not super easy either, and fuel mileage is nothing to cheer about. And my Buick is SLOW...

I drive mine mostly during the colder months, and it gets 15-17 in mixed driving. It has 3.23 gears, a Holley 1945 from a '75-'80 car (NOS in the box, never even took it apart), 2.25 exhaust, 5* initial, electronic ignition, and a three-speed. I run the distributor that came with the engine...

If you're talking about the oil seals, no...they will have no impact on compression. If you're talking about the valve face sealing against the valve seat, then yes.

It's not a terrible idea.

Most Holley 1945s have a nitrophyl float. It's possible that the float is absorbing fuel, getting heavy, and starting to flood the engine. Are the plugs black? Other than that, it might just be time for a new fuel filter and a good old carb cleaning. On the other hand, many people mistake...

I've used florescent die to find oil leaks in the past. You can get a cheap kit online with glasses and a light that will help you find the leak. I've found leaking senders, valve covers, and transmission o-rings with it. Just a thought...

A tight valve can cause the engine to miss or run a bit rough; a loose valve is a little noisy. Don't be surprised if you hear a little noise from the valvetrain; if you adjust all the noise out, they're probably too tight.

Jetting down the carb isn't necessarily the answer. I've found that you often need to richen the jets with an oversized carb to make it work in a situation where it isn't quite the right fit for the engine. I also feel that disconnecting the secondaries is a waste of time because they don't...

That's the only time it does it, although we have few hills in Michigan. :)

Since the engine originally came from a Charger, I swapped the 170's pan and pickup. I'll probably add a half quart for now, and at the next oil change, I'll run the borescope through the drain hole and see if anything looks obviously amiss.

Honestly, with 8 cars to watch out for, I can't remember if I put 4.5 or 5 quarts in it! Either way, I think you're correct all the way around (especially about just leaving it alone), and I thank you, sir.

Just below and to the rear of the filter...

This is a weird one... My Dart's engine is a '74 225 with the original 170's pan and pickup. When I installed that pan, I modified the dipstick tube of the new engine to make sense with my new pan, and whenever I change the oil, it's spot on the full mark. When I have to stop quickly, my...

For what it's worth, I just replaced my plastic PCV valve with the Standard V-180 because mine was rattling. I haven't driven the Dart enough lately to offer any prognosis on the noise, but I have high hopes! Glad it's not just my car that does it.

You also might want to verify that the gauge is accurate; it's probably easiest to use an infrared thermometer.

You will need to modify your exhaust to match the manifold. The 225 is 1" taller, so your head pipe will be 1" too short. My exhaust was horrible, so I ended up just having a new system bent up at the exhaust shop.

That's a Holley 1945, probably a '74 or '75.

I was actually ready to do that at first, because it felt like it was vapor locking. It's on the job list; sometimes, the job list gets pretty long with five of these old things. :)

It already has a 2.25 system all the way back, and I didn't even ask for it! The muffler shop used 2.25 pipe.

Get ready to laugh at my expense. It's time to remember to keep it simple...the plastic fuel filter before the carb was plugged. Granted, it had to reach that state somehow, and that somehow was likely running the tank dry because my gas gauge doesn't work. For now, however, it will exceed...

I ran the car out of gas this spring. It feels exactly like it did when it started running out.

That's a good deal. Unfortunately, the sender is something like 55 dollars. Anybody have a preference for a brand of sender, or are they all junk? :)

That brings up another question... Anyone know if there's a reproduction tank for a '65 Dart wagon? I had my Corvair's tank cleaned and sealed a few years back and for what it cost I could have just bought a new one.

I've been running a Mopar Orange Box, but swapped back to my points distributor today to rule that out. That's as far into electrical as I've gotten. I have revved it up in first a bit and it seemed to be fine. I think I ran it up to 40 or so in second and it was OK there, too.