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Comon' Man! LoL I did the easy stuff, replaced Hose and caliper. I should be good to go... No? It worked great initially, why would the second caliper have the same symptom? I fear that I'll spend money on the SSBC caliper w/ss sleeve only to have the same result. Is there something else I...

Thanks Bill. Yes fluid fliows when the pedal is applied. What's getting me is that I replaced the hose and caliper and I'm still having the same issue. The fluid is new ( less than 500 miles on it). This whole brake system is new either the exception of the prop valve.

nope it didn't and Oye, This F'n caliper!:BangHead:

Thanks trailbeast. No pressure when I crack the bleeder. And this is a second caliper. What are the chances the second one is doing the same as the first! ( rhetorical) This is annoying.

Greetings, During my resto I converted to a set of Kelsey Hayes. For the first few hundred miles everything worked great. Then the left front brake started to drag and now the car pulls to the left. Ive read some treads and I am familiar with the knock on these brakes but I replaced the caliper...

How are you planning to drill those for the 4.5 pattern?

I think you could separate them at the equalizer. then pull the third member and transfer cables to the 8 3/4. As Bad Sport stated once installed check lengths and adjust as needed. my .02 Never mind I was writing as you were lol

I used finelines for the brakes and fuel perfect fit,both stainless steel. Went to inline tube for the parking brake. Very good also. If you have the combo valve go with the 1 piece front to rear.

There is a thread on here somewhere that has many different approaches to removal. When I did mine the method I used worked great. After removing the master cylinder and draining it I used my floor jack to do the work. I fed the rod through the floor jack and placed a big screwdriver through...

mine for the 69 Dart had no intermediate cable. On my setup is on the left side of the car. It routed out of the firewall under the floor through the cross member and connected to the rear cables by an adapter plate. The rear cables mounted to a bracket on the left side just under the rear...

^^^ What is the number for the rear 10"drum? EDIT: After reading the post that 6pak2go posted I see this part number is for the rear. Thanks!

Okay so I'm a bit slow on the uptake of this discussion. My understanding is * KH setup = FIXED type * 73+ setup = FLOATING type. Having ridden sport bikes I can tell you that most if not all come with "multi pot" fixed calipers and semi floating rotors for street and full floating...

I Friggin awesome! Thank you! :) great info.

They run the special 14 inch lines ;P on the Dukes Charger.

I did this, not sure if it will help you.

lol, I guess it happens when we go after market ;) I ended up bending up another short section with 3/16 flare at both ends and using the combo valve with a coupling to Join the 2pc front to back section (ala AbodyJoe). That being said I can also fit the adjustable prop valve at any time. AND...

lol no worries Gerald. it's all a learning experience And I don't mind sharing so others don't have to go through it :) I would have thought the valve fabricator would have standardized the fittings based on application.u

That's cool. After some digging I found out: * The adjustable prop valve is tapped for metric M8 (1 0) which is why the 1/8 not didn't work. * The short section with the 1/4 in fitting is correct for the input of the factory hold off. I'm going to either track down the fitting, the...

Gahh! This is kind of ridiculous and frustrating. I received the adjustable valve yesterday. It's a unit from "Right Stuff" braking, I bought it through Inline Tube since I was ordering the P-Brake hardware anyway. The P-valve came with 2 - 3/16th adapters but as stated in my previous post...

Thanks Joe... Do you recall the fitting sizes on the short section of the 2pc. rear you received from fine lines? Mine came with a 3/16 fitting on one end and a 1/4 on the other. The port on the block is tapped for the 3/16 end which means the 1/4 end has to join with the long section...

Caxey, I think you are referring to my master Cylinder (I'm not running a power booster) It's a Raybestos Master cylinder (#MC36406) 15/16 bore.

Thanks! :supz: I will heed your advice and learn from your experience :thumblef: I couple more pictures while I wait for the Adj. prop valve and Parking cables to arrive (tomorrow).

Classic ndustries and year one has em AlV

Thanks! I can't wait to get it on the road. Just picked up the parking brake setup and the Fuel line, tank and sending unit. Everything to make it stop and go lol

I cleaned up the original 5 port "non combo" block and installed it back onto the Dart. The M/C lines which were perfectly bent for the combination block required some massaging to works with the smaller non combination block. The adjustable valve should arrive soon and I'll post updated...

Thanks for all of the feedback. I'll be back on track again after a little rework :) AlV

Thanks for the info! I don't think I'll see shoes that big on this ride lol, but its good to know that the OEM set up works well. I did get the 15/16 MC for my set up ( I probably should have mentioned that earlier) and I'll keep the wheel cylinder changes in my back pocket.

I'm leaning to Option 1 also since I already have the 2 pc front to rear set up, and the original block just needs to be cleaned up. I could keep it original and get the correct hold down block but I like the idea of the adjustable valve. Plus its Bolt-on. The new adj. valve should arrive...

Perfect this looks like the setup for the 2 pc. line. I have to think about either changing lines, or going back to the configuration in your photos. Thanks for the photos AlV

Okay Thanks! I won't run both. So that leaves the following options: 1. Go back to the old block, get an adjustable valve and use the 2 pc line. 2. Keep the combo valve and get a 1pc line.