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Yeah, you can find someone on here saying most anything. Back in the days when I was making engine dollies I had a guy on the forum tell me that he didn't need to buy an engine dolly since he just went to the grocery store and stole a shopping cart when he needed a dolly. So that is the level of...

I had a bridge crane in my previous shop so I put the rear wheels up on blocks and then lifted the front of the car with the crane. Roll the engine underneath, set the frame down on jacks and then pull the engine into place. Took a couple of hours to put the whole thing together.

Nice throttle bracket!

Maybe, I've never tried it. I have seen guys use C body HP manifolds and angle mill them. Not exactly an easy solution but I've heard that it works. On my Duster I just used the smallest header I could find and that seemed to work okay but it was only 600 hp.

I can run a dyno test and prove that headers pick up a lot of power when switching from manifolds. I can also run a dyno test showing that headers don't pick up much power from manifolds. Just because you see a video of something doesn't mean that you aren't being lied to. The trick is the...

I don't think B body HP manifolds are going to fit in an A body so the discussion might be moot. However, in a B body you can build a performance engine that doesn't give up much power to headers. You have to be very, very careful with the cam selection but 500 hp isn't a problem with HP...

The 1 ton bridge crane allowed me to "cheat" on a lot of stuff. I could pick up the front of the car and lower it back down over the engine and trans or I could lift the engine and transmission up into the car from below if the car was sitting on high jacks.

Yeah it works great if you have the right tools. Taking your time and figuring out the next move is a smart idea the first time around. I had the engine in and out of my Duster more than a few times during the build process. Each time I improved the process and decreased the time.

I did a low deck 470 with TF 270 heads. This was a pump gas engine, made 780 hp with a Wilson ported Indy intake. Made pretty good power with a heavily ported Mopar 4500 M1 intake.

Simple, you cut the old one out and make a new one core support that puts everything where you need it.

My Duster ran 10's with 1 3/4 inch headers on it. No reason to go bigger unless the engine is putting out more than 600 hp.

Trick Flow heads are typically ready to use right out of the box. None of the other brands are currently, but things change over time as employees come and go.

No they are late model engines with cast cranks. E means cast crank when it is after the 440. The numbers aren't complete. There should be a number before the T showing the year. Late model engines are stamped something like 8T440 for 1978 Trenton 440. If OP wants to know for sure before he...

Just late model 440 engines with cast cranks. Nothing special about them. You want the one that is in the nicest shape but that can be a little hard to tell sometimes.

These days it costs a small fortune to find a good set of cast iron cores and to have them fully rebuilt. Getting cast iron heads ported so they make decent power is going to cost a whole bunch more. The only customers that I've seen spend money on cast iron heads are the resto guys, or the NHRA...

I can't tell which parts you are using from the picture. Maybe tell us which K frame you have and which motor mounts you are using. Are you trying to lift the engine and K frame in from the bottom while they are attached to each other? I'm not sure that will work but that is what it appears that...

We use the one piece seal on all big block Mopar engines. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't, but it has been the most successful of all of the current choices. Rear main leaks are the worst thing about building a BB Mopar engine. I agree with 35 degrees. We set all BB Mopar engines at...

If the 400 is fairly stock then you should buy the smallest headers available. The smallest headers will still work just fine with a stock 400 and they'll provide more clearance.

Well 30 degrees of timing would kill a bunch of power but even with the retarded timing it still seems like something else is wrong with that engine. Be interesting to see what you find out.

Looks like a 440 with EZ heads and an Indy dual plane intake. It should pull past 5000 RPM even with that cam. That cam is 230/236 so it is small for 500 inches, but it should still pull to 6000 or so. Maybe the EFI system isn't working right, or maybe the ignition wasn't up to snuff. FI tech...

That 452 head can't be fixed with a drill press. The head would need to go in a vertical mill to have the broken part milled off. There isn't any cheap way to fix it since welding cast iron is a pain and building custom rocker stands is a pain. The head is junk. The OP is free to call around to...

40 years ago we fixed stuff like that, not anymore. Here is a set of heads that I built for a low deck 426 back in the 90's. It was a cool engine at the time but it would suck compared to a set of Trick Flow heads these days.

Double groove is usually for AC or perhaps emissions. Single groove is more typical for a performance big block. I probably have some double groove pullies out in the shop if you really need one.

Junk. 452 heads are basically worthless so why bother fixing one? 452 heads won't even bring $25 each at a swap meet around here. I ended up tossing a stack of them last time I moved.

Nice thing about pulling the engine up into the car from below is that the engine can be fully assembled. Headers bolted on and torqued in place. Spark plugs torqued, wires on, distributor in, starter bolted in place. Transmission bolted in place. Radiator hoses on the engine, fan belts...

You scored some nice parts. Some people really like that intake manifold and the adjustable rocker arms are worth money if they haven't been chewed up too bad. The deep pan is a clue that it was built for racing so you might find some more HD parts on the inside. Most likely forged pistons, a HV...

In my old shop I would just lift the front of the car off the ground with my bridge crane. Then I would roll the big block and transmission under the car, and then lower the car down over the engine. Lift the engine into the car, lift the k frame up to the car and you're just about finished. I...

My solid plates were designed to work with TF 270 heads. Valley Plates | AR Engineering They'll also work with the TF 240 heads if you use the batwings to seal off the valley. With 270 or Indy heads you don't need the batwings since the heads sit on top of the edge of the valley. Just run a...

Fabricate an engine support bar. It is fairly easy to do and there are a lot of places on the engine where you can attach straps or hangers. Here is the engine support bar that I used on my big block while I was fabricating new engine mounts.

When you switch to LHD do you change the engine centerline in the car? If you flip the centerline then the entire body pan has to be reworked and the rear axle has to be redone.