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Thats the same setup I have on my 360 came off an 86 van works great and replacement sanden compressor bolts right on

I have a mid-late 80s setup that came on the 360 I bought might have some xtra brackets problem is you have to use correct intake or compressor won't work I did have a sanden on it I run r-134

With optional rust included

Thanks for all the help guys n gals got it fixed found the majority of water was coming from heater hose next to t stat housing so I had 2 leaks aren't old cars fun. Now I need to see where trany leak is coming from one thing after another

Isn't that the same thing drill it out rethread it install heli coil not concerned about it havin factory bolt

I have a tap n die set there is enough meat there to go to the next size bigger bolt Quess I could do that

One bolt hole is stripped should I try this thread restore or jb weld a stud in and use a nut?

Autozone special had one on mine worked ok

Yup strung me along for about 3 months with all kinds of excuses was actually amazed I got my money back

Ordered one a couple yrs ago never rec'd it had to call many times to get money back

Changed intake to older cast one and now a/c compressor won't fit here in so TX a/c is top priority so gonna have to find a intake that will work arghhh. I'll post in wanted

I'll look at mine but don't think you can get to the clips that hold the box together without removing it

73 is the yr they changed

Not real hard just a long process. You have to remove the entire unit that has the core inside, studs that mount unit have nuts on engine bay side of firewall I think 3 or 4 ?elec, vac hoses [be sure to label vac hoses] a/c vent outlet has bolts going up into dash from bottom, pass outside vent...

Sent u a pm

Is there a major difference between the cheap 134 and the expensive stuff?

Heat always works for me

Mine works great s tx 100 plus degrees w/ac on no problem

Whatever unit you decide on make sure it has defrost option I didn't and regret it

I believe they changed in 73 I have the a/c heat unit from my 72 if interested pm me

I took 6pk's advice and clamped the ends opposite the bolts and no more leaks yea

That was my thought also gonna pull them and drill for clamps Thanks for your help

Added a pic of dryer it leaks on both sides

Ya it has the metal flare gskts thats where its leakin the hose part doesn't leak don't have any off the van to get pics it held up till 3rd can of refrigerant then started leakin tried a new dryer no change

Tryin to find new lines for 93 dodge ram van leakin at dryer can't get them to seal tried double gskts nobody local carries them Where can I get them? Thanks Bruce

You have to have a blade made for the clutch has a 2" center to go over the clutch it bolts to the back of clutch all the aftermarket blades I looked at don't work because of 4 little tabs protruding into that 2" hole I got my new clutch at Oriellys oem for Darts w/ac

Ya put a clutch on it won't rev as high as motor and uses less hp

Just replaced the thermal clutch prob solved

I have a clutch fan gonna replace the clutch it's prob the cause

Just put a champion radiator in the Dart and then discovered the fan blade is causing the pulsating vibration (motor vibration thread) looked at some replacement blades and some state 4000 rpm limit should I just go ahead and buy the elec fan/shroud combo for the champion rad? Thanks Bruce