Search results for query: *

Yep, I believe that’s correct

This help? If I recall when I did mine it is held in when the bracket slides into the Shifter housing https://documents.holley.com/3327303_instructions.pdf

I didn’t have washers, so ran a bunch of short drywall screws in instead. Anything to keep the spring stretched out will work

How much to big is the bushing? I had to throw mine in the freezer for 4 hours, then if tapped right in.

If it's just a street cruiser, get new 3:23 ring and pinion from Summit for under $300. Pull out the carrier and have it rebuilt with the new gears, prob have $500-600 done

I pushed the pedal down, drove a bunch of big sheet metal screws in the spaces. Can just spin them out after the spring is out

Just wondering what you mean, "harsh on parts"? I have had the Centerforce DF with my 340 and have light pedal pressure, smooth operation and holds well when I get on it. Haven't had any issues with it in 4 years.

Ok, still trying to make this bushing work so looking for ideas. It appears the crank hole is 1.08 ". If I take a 1.125 bushing and freeze it, will it shrink enough to press it in? Or would it expand and damage the crank? Or not expand enough for the input shaft to turn freely? I'm...

Thanks guys, that works!

would like to go with a pilot bushing instead of a bearing on a 5.9 magnum stroker with a 68 833 4spd. Looks like I would need a 1" od. .75" id bushing and all I can find is needle bearings. Anyone know of a part number for a oilite bronze bushing that would work?

Subscribed

I had the same issue with tranny not going in all the way last winter. On advice from guys here, I rigged a strap up to apply pressure to clutch fork so the disk was not clamped against the flywheel by the preasure plate. Transmission slid right in. Also did as Demon 408 with the guide pins...

Guessing 1000 miles on it. Is that something I can check without pulling the engine?

Tranny mount is new also, polyurethane mount. Plastic bushings looked good when I had them out last winter, but defiantly going to look at them good Sunday.

Still having the adjustment issue. Had my wife work the clutch tonight and noticed two things. It appears that when the clutch is depressed, the z-bar doesn't just rotate around the ball stub, it appears to flex forward as it rotates. Also it appears like the firewall by the brake master...

Yep, 14 1/4

not sure how to tell. 70 Duster, I am assuming its whatever came with the car but that's a guess. That is a thought though as it seems the rod from the clutch pedal is almost scraping the bottom of the hole where it comes through the firewall.

Looking at Mopardude318's pictures, my clutch fork and zbar are different than what I have. Your throwout bearing sits more toward the end of the fork, and your return spring attaches to the side of fork. My spring attaches to the front of the fork. I am attaching pictures. You can see on...

Brand new poly locks.

K, it's 12.5. Thanks for confirming that for me.

Wrong fork maybe? Anyone have some dimensions? Total length, distance from fulcrum to adjusting rod hole? I did take the over center spring off for this clutch.

Nope, no cracks on anything. Am heading out to see about some different bolts. And if my engine shop is open on a Saturday I'll stop in and see about the pivot ball. I still think the angle of the adjusting rod into the clutch fork looks off, but don't see any way to change that. Thx guys!

That would work. My concern is I'm missing something else that is causing this.

I got a 70 Duster, 340/833 4spd. Put a new Centerforce dual friction clutch in. As recommended by Centerforce I am putting 500 relatively easy miles on it for break in. I been having issues with the clutch coming out of adjustment. It seems to like 3/4 inch of pedal free play, shifts great...

Mine had a notch on the steering shaft coupling that lined up with a flat spot on the steering gear shaft, so like gdrill said it only goes on one way.

Thanks again FABO. No one to push the clutch, but used a little shadetree mechanic and hooked a ratchet strap between the clutch fork and the rear frame. Tightened it a little and the transmission just about slid itself in. Thanks to all who replied. Now I can watch the 40-50 mph winds blow...

I used a plastic alignment tool from Summit. Was around $6 and since I didn't have anything else it sounded good. I tightened the clutch by going up about #10-15 of torque per round. Don't remember the final number, but Took 3 times around to get the bolts torqued.

Part #DF269739 If I have some one step on the clutch in order to get the tranny in, would the clutch fully engage? Wouldn't there be some pressure on the clutch at all times then?

Doesn't appear to be. May pull the clutch off to double check but if I recall the flywheel side is flat with the disk. Looked at old disk to verify and that on is flat on fw side.

This is the same transmission that came out of it, just changing the clutch. Bell housing didn't come off either. Would It still need to be trimmed? If I measure from transmission housing to end of shaft, then from bell housing to bottom of crankshaft hole it should tell me if I have enough...