clutch linkage

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Backally

Backally

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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I got a 70 Duster, 340/833 4spd. Put a new Centerforce dual friction clutch in. As recommended by Centerforce I am putting 500 relatively easy miles on it for break in. I been having issues with the clutch coming out of adjustment. It seems to like 3/4 inch of pedal free play, shifts great. But after 30 miles of in town driving it comes out of adjustment to where I can't get it into first gear unless I turn the motor off. Readjust it, comes out of the garage great but 30 miles later same thing. Got under it today, and it appears that the clutch fork is rubbing against a bolt holding the bracket under the fork. There does not seem to be any way to raise the fork. The bracket sits in the slot in the fork, the pointy spring thing in the fork is in the bracket slot. Didn't have this problem last year, so would think I have the correct fork. I could grind a little off the fork, but am worried I have some other issue I am not seeing.

Also, the clutch adjusting rod does not seem to line up very well with the clutch fork. Not sure if the picture shows it very well. Got new adjusting rod grommet from Brewers so that is good. Again, is this normal? Or is something somewhere off to where it is causing both issues?

Z-bar was out last year, plastic bushings were good, greased it up and reinstalled. But otherwise, not much adjustment that I can see. Looking for ideas!
 

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How about a button head/Allen head bolt? Might get you some clearance.
 
That would work. My concern is I'm missing something else that is causing this.
 
Nope, no cracks on anything. Am heading out to see about some different bolts. And if my engine shop is open on a Saturday I'll stop in and see about the pivot ball. I still think the angle of the adjusting rod into the clutch fork looks off, but don't see any way to change that.

Thx guys!
 
kind of an aside, when going from a finger pressure plate to a diaphragm type you need/recommended to remove the over center spring from the pedal assy. I doubt this has anything to do with current problem, but overall there just isn't much to any of it.
 
Something's up with the fork and fulcrum. It doesn't appear the fork is contacting the bearing correctly, it looks to be too far "in" towards the input shaft.
 
Wrong fork maybe? Anyone have some dimensions? Total length, distance from fulcrum to adjusting rod hole?

I did take the over center spring off for this clutch.
 
With hemi clutches,, I've repalaced a few cracked Z-bars,, the tube cracks at the end, and spreads open, causing symptons like yours, the adjusment kept going away... welded support tube around ends..
 
Looking at Mopardude318's pictures, my clutch fork and zbar are different than what I have. Your throwout bearing sits more toward the end of the fork, and your return spring attaches to the side of fork. My spring attaches to the front of the fork. I am attaching pictures. You can see on the fork the shiny spot where the throwout bearing sits. From looking at diagrams in my service manual my zbar looks like what they show a valiant to have but it appears they show the spring attaching to the side as your pictures show yours.

I did not see any cracks in the Zbar when I had it out last winter, but may be worth my time to pull it off and look it over.

Again, thanks for the ideas, something just doesn't look right about it but I don't have anything to compare it to.
 

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your clutch fork looks correct. there were 2 different styles available, a notch in the side for a spring, (like mine) then yours, where the spring clips in the middle. its makes no difference, they are the same fork offering the same throw.

my Z-bar is aftermarket...It's a modified z-bar built by TTI for their TTI headers.

what year is your bellhousing? there were 2 different style ball stud brackets that put the z bar in different positions...
 
not sure how to tell. 70 Duster, I am assuming its whatever came with the car but that's a guess. That is a thought though as it seems the rod from the clutch pedal is almost scraping the bottom of the hole where it comes through the firewall.
 
Still having the adjustment issue. Had my wife work the clutch tonight and noticed two things. It appears that when the clutch is depressed, the z-bar doesn't just rotate around the ball stub, it appears to flex forward as it rotates. Also it appears like the firewall by the brake master cylinder looks to flex a little also. This is a Centerforce clutch, over center spring has been removed. Clutch pressure does not seem hard to me. New Brewers pedal assembly. Z-bar is probably an inch out on the fender side ball stud. Will be Sunday afternoon before I get a chance to tear into it, will take the z-bar off and inspect it. Has anyone seen this before, or have ideas what to look for?
 
You said you had new motor mounts.
What about the tranny mount, something is moving or wearing to have to adjust that often.
What shape are the plastic bushing in the z-bar?
 
Tranny mount is new also, polyurethane mount. Plastic bushings looked good when I had them out last winter, but defiantly going to look at them good Sunday.
 
Guessing 1000 miles on it. Is that something I can check without pulling the engine?
 
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