Search results for query: *

You need enough play to be able to clear the rear yoke when installing/removing the driveshaft (with the car at normal ride height). And that's roughly about an inch. Too short of a driveshaft can cause vibrations easier as the transmission yoke is a little bit further out of the bearing in the...

No one picks up on this but a misaligned pushbutton-system can cause funny things too. That, and the neglected in hooking up the throttle pressure lever awhile ago it's not surprising the trans is acting up.

I don't think 'creating a whole new set of issues' is worth it to not having to simply clearance the tunnel. Besides your car will look like a 4x4 when you're done, handling is down the drain, steering column needs to angled down, and the spindles are getting too short resulting in much more...

I trimmed down the long rib to be a bit narrower going to the rear on the transmission tailshaft, and also on the other side I trimmed some protruding parts off the transmission. You need to reweld/reinforce the upper part of the crossmember again, otherwise the entire crossmember will slowly...

Good info AJ. My ignition timing is fully digital. I can tell exactly how much advance my engine is running at a certain rpm and at what vacuum level (engine load).

Somewhat of a topic-update; I made a real attempt to get a good mileage number again recently. I had to go on a 2hr one-way trip so decided to drive the same speed as I drove years back when I got my car and managed 17mpg with the low cr 318/904/7-1/4" in it. Well, after driving like a senile...

The original crossmember was stamped sheetmetal. While the OD-transmission is a but heavier than a 904 or 727, the crossmember above looks like something designed to hold 20.000 lbs of weight... It also seems to extend and hang real low under the car.

Yes. But also the 'bolt-ears' at the flange between trans and OD-unit will hit the tunnel's sheetmetal. Clearancing that is greatly advised.

Transmission tunnel will always need to be clearanced because otherwise the transmission, and engine (!) with everything connected, will be pointing down at the rear at a larger angle.

I daily drive with 3.55 gears and an A518 (OD). If your engine makes nice torque down low a 3.23 would be good enough.

I don't get removing something from a transmission that makes it more useful then the rest. Garages are for cars.

Where's the time gone when people simply could make/modify things with their hands and simple tools...

Just as a workaround to fix the leak, see if you can back out the bolthead a few turns, and work a tight rubber O-ring over the head and gently tighten down the bolthead again.

I've seen this on occassion when the tires are mounted and balanced already. If you're close enough with the tire-shop you could point it out and ask if they could rotate the tire on the wheel to see if it gets better. Otherwise, just don't drive faster than your IQ.... :D

The '63 axles themselves probably still have the conical ends where the drums hook up to. Not sure how different the gears would be between the later models. But, if you want a really short explanation of 7-1/4" rear ends; Ditch them when they require maintenance! ;)

This is only the OD-unit being offered, as shown. That won't work for you. You need the complete transmission.

You can air-check the pistons.

Yes. If the mantle is cracked, ATF can seep out.

I clearly noticed a difference in engine torque during cold starts/driving when using a thinner/synthetic engine oil (0w20) in my roller 318.

All my cars run easier/better after being shutoff for 1-2 hrs after a long drive before that. Warm fluids, 'cold' engine, the difference is noticable (to me in an 'old' daily driven car).

I know details are scarce, because I didn't feel like typing out my life story :D Pretty much from day 1 I got this car, I've been playing with timing and ways to optimize the engine tune. I also didn't mentioned the fuel used is LPG (Propane/Butane). That offsets the mileage back usually. At...

My Dart went from a 904 to a 518 (LU+OD) with no benefit in mileage. MPG even got worse for a bit. This was with a low power 8.6:1cr 318ci and 3.23 gears in the lightweight 7-1/4" axle. First 518 went bad, changed for A518 w/OD only. Changed rear axle to 8-3/4" w/3.23 gears, no change. Changed...

Nice write up sofar. All 500/518s came with deep pans, but if your pan is even deeper, it will def be the lowest hanging item under your car.

I'm using a stock console shifter on my A518. No issues. Just some fabbing.

The A500 is the same length as the A518. Also, the 500 requires the same modifications as a 518, as it's not the transmission housing itself that requires mods to the tunnel, but the bulky flange at the OD-section, which is the same on both transmissions. I'm currently rebuilding an A500 for my...

Could be wrong but the v8-transmission 'might' have a plate more in the clutchpacks I think.

Don't forget a transmission, just like an engine, also needs warm/hot temps to expell condensation/moisture from the oil and housing.

Your replacement filter is the proper one. The stone-old dirty 'thing' that came off it is the wrong one. Running a 2-hole filter on a '65 or newer transmission means the trans has been drinking partially unfiltered oil through the 2nd hole (although it is clamped against the valvebody somewhat).

You can create a "tighter" seal yourself too by grabbing a part of the surrounding spring, create an extra loop and twist it on its self so the spring now sits tighter around the seal.

The inner axle seal (in the housing) is the only one that is designed to keep the gearoil inside the housing and not mix with and wash away the grease in the bearings. If the bearings are adjusted too loose then the axles are riding 'higher' in the housing, causing the inner seal to become less...