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As a test with the engine running at idle, squeeze the PVC-hose shut for a moment. See if the miss disappears. Idle will usually improve while doing this nonetheless. Could be a lean mixture, or one or two cylinders getting a lean-mixture. Perhaps the PCV-system host is connected wrong, or...

Why are your pistons are installed upside down...?

Headlights behind a relay doesn't fix them flickering. The flickering comes from twitchy VR operation and low power-output from the alternator. Stock alts are known for that. Install a newer (80s/90s) kind of alternator with built-in VR and your flickering is gone.

Slide a thin sheet of plastic/wood between there and see if the misfire disappears.

If you're lucky, depending on which year, it might have an allen screw inside the can which you can adjust.

A stronger spring under the rods will richen up the mixture. But maybe you simply need a one size thinner rod. There's more to it. Here, an AFR-gauge will tell you what your engine really wants.

Engine grounded properly? Wire-gauges thick enough from trunk to enginebay?

My engines stalls somewhere around 1.5ms dwell-time. The coil however auto-ignites somewhere at 4.2-4.5ms, depending on voltage (amps) that get put through it. MegaSquirt can also use Dwell Battery Compensation, meaning dwell-time will be limited or increased depending on ignition voltage. I...

I'm running an MSD Blaster SS with a HEI 7-pin module, controlled by the MegaSquirt3 ECU. My dwell table ranges from 2.5ms to around 4.2ms. Only reason I use the Blaster SS is because I could buy it used and cheap. edit: That's why I like used parts... At least they have proven themselves to...

Uptill now I've only bought about 5 used gel-batteries over time for various cars and they've all treated me good... except for one that is, where indeed the previous owner had let the battery go flat a couple of times (too many). Turned out he used the battery for powering the led-lighting in...

Well, our winters are fairly mild compared to other parts in the world, but I've come to the conclusion it are the regular lead/acid batteries that usually croak during the winter.

Dual field alternators require regulators with 2 field wires. Unless you put one field to ground on the alternator, in which case you can use old style regulator, But you still have a single field alternator.

Old Mopar alternators don't charge much, or any at all at idle speeds. Even more if parts are changed overtime, wiring is getting old and maybe a larger pulley is mounted on the alternator, limiting it's charging rpm even more. If originality is something you care about, you could decide to...

Reversed polarity on the distributor pickup?

I don't know if they vary the 10 degrees rpm-based. I thought they just ran on 10 deg.avance if the reference pin isn't connected. They then really should be used with ECU controlled timing and a fixed distributor. I'm using a 7-pin HEI module in my Dart with a MegaSquirt 3X.

I know, but my MegaSquirt-install doesn't seem to care. The cables are prob. be due for replacement fairly soon I would guess. They should be well over 10 years old by now. Still want to do a dark waterspray test to see if they are leaking sparkies, but the way the engine run it doesn't seem likely.

The 7 and 8 pin modules can handle more power and provide a possible better spark.

I'm running old(er) Mopar solid core (steel stranded wires) sparkplug cables with my MegaSquirt 3X. Leanburn distributor, 7-pin HEI and MSD Blaster SS e-core coil. Turn on the AM-radio in my '73 Dart and you'll think it's a Geigercounter. Noise filtering is 'on' to filter out any possible...

Ignition ballast resistor is broken/burned internally. Temporarly bypass the 2 sides of the resistor with a wire and try again.

Mount the coil upright first. Measure voltage at the coil with engine off, and once with engine running. Then get rid of the choke-wire, as a test. Use a different powersource for that if you really need the choke.

I also think the wiring to the stereo is of a too small gauge.

Hardly. Just upgrade to a modern small Nippondenso alternator, upgrade the wiring, install relays and all these 'old car' issues are gone.

You need to connect an intake vacuum tube to the ECU. If the ECU doesn't have a port for this you probably need to buy a separate MAP-sensor. Is this a race only unit/setup? How will you be using this setup? For street-use you really need a MAP (vacuum-input) into the ECU otherwise it serves no...

Gut a Mopar ECU, put in a HEI-module, run everything on 12v and call it a day. No one will know the difference. EDIT: check here: Installing a GM HEI Module

Points-type distributors always have experienced a load from the points pushing against the shaft. So they tend to have noticable wear to the shaft and bearing inside the housing.

Measure at 3500 too, as there could be more in the mechanical advance.

I'm running my iPhone through an amplifier and speakers on the package-tray, and also a flat subwoofer behind the rear seat. I use a simple relay and switch, low on the dashboard to turn on the amp before I plug-in the iPhone. But you could also power-up the amp with the ignition switch so it's...

Here's the file; https://www.bigblockmopar.nl/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/1974Dodge-ElectricalBW.pdf It's a direct link to the PDF, 5MB in size. The file contains 52 pages. Del, I changed the file to a 'grayscale' PDF, as the scans were made in color, which was not needed because the original...

Unless they are the same ones as these on MyMopar.com, then they are already online. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74DartA.jpg http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74DartB.jpg

Mail it to me and I'll put it online. My username @ gmail.com