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Are you sure this isn't a mixture-issue?

Vacuum advanced installed? Engines want timing to run cool and give some performance. Also, most parts live shorter when operated in high(er) temps; rubberhoses, gaskets, oil. Although most parts are designed for that, I personally don't like to run on the edge and have some added safety-margin.

My '57 Chrysler does the same with the fuel guage. With headlights on I get an extra 20% of FREE gas! :D

You probably just hit a kicked-up rock or something on the way which damaged your radiator. Cooling system pressure is mostly about surpressing the boiling-point of the coolant.

The end of an era...! So... can we welcome "SmallBlockDan" soon then? Or do you skip right to torque-city as 'BigBlockDan'??? :)

To me that first car just looks uninspiring. White paint on a car is primer in my book. Unless you actually like riding around in something that looks a refrigerator with wheels. Painted bumpers shout out 'CHEAP' and '80s for me and are an instant downer. As for the fins, imo they should match...

I agree with the above. Also, before you start ordering stock replacement parts, go over the rest of the brake system first. Wouldn't surprise me if everything needed attention, and, at that point I would advise in doing an upgrade at the same time. Like installing discbrakes for instance.

Normally you take off the cap and fill the brakefluid there until 1/2" below the edge. But, looking at the rusty condition of that MC I would start thinking about replacing it real quick, and maybe even upgrade the entire brake system while you're at it if you like to drive/enjoy the car for a...

I guess there's a ridge of rust inside the master cylinder that you are feeling in the pedal. Was the car driven before you bought it? If there's really rust inside the mcaster cylinder, I won't take long before it tears up the seals and fails completely. Be aware this could happen.

Had a '64 Chrysler limo once that shuddered right after take-off and then at expentional increasing interval speeds. B&T unit was already changed to u-joints adn I had the axle shaft balanced already. No help. Turned out the transmission mount was totally mush and soft by being soaked with oil...

For all things, steel wheels usually have less contact points to a drums than aluminium wheels.

My guess is they could have ment; the wheelstuds don't protrude through the wheels that much, leaving barely enough threads for the wheelnuts to catch on.

Luckily I never needed to learn to hate fkbook, it happened naturally the moment I first saw it, many years ago and it 'demanded me' to register and login first. Fk'm.

392 in a '68 Dart...

I had '64 Newport that did that everytime upon take off a certain speeds. Later turned out to be the wornout/oilsoaked transmission mount that caused it. Or at least, a new mount solved it.