Brakes "skip" as I press down. Whats goin on?

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66DartSedan

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So I'm taking my 66 dart to have the back glass replaced and on the way there as the I press the brakes theyll stop for a second and then depress and then stop and then depress. Whats going on here?
 
So I'm taking my 66 dart to have the back glass replaced and on the way there as the I press the brakes theyll stop for a second and then depress and then stop and then depress. Whats going on here?

Are you saying the pedal keeps dropping as you are applying pressure?
 
Lube all the linkage but it's probably a bad master cylinder. Does it stop straight, no pulling to one side?
 
I press the brakes they'll stop for a second and then depress and then stop and then depress.

No its like it freezes midway and then depresses normally

I'm going by what you said above.

Is what you are describing all in one pedal push?

Seems like brakes applied, release, brakes applied etc. All in one push of the pedal?
 
Lube all the linkage but it's probably a bad master cylinder. Does it stop straight, no pulling to one side?
Yeah it stops straight. It just freezes once or twice under my foot for a second and the stop like normal.
 
could be bleeding wheel cylinders. are your inner rims wet? 66 still had single pot M/C? it may be a proportioning valve sticking too if it has one. Id start with a full fluid replacement, thats only about 2 bucks and 30 minutes.
 
Power brakes? Drums all around,disc/drum or disc disc?
All relevant.
A master cylinder can bypass internally,with a gentle push pedal will go all the way to the floor. But a hard slam and brakes will hold.
Sticking is something that usually occurs in the brake booster,or a wheel cylinder hanging up.
 
I'm going by what you said above.

Is what you are describing all in one pedal push?

Seems like brakes applied, release, brakes applied etc. All in one push of the pedal?
all in one action: brakes applied...momentary freeze...continues to brake...momentary freeze...fully braked.
 
Power brakes? Drums all around,disc/drum or disc disc?
All relevant.
A master cylinder can bypass internally,with a gentle push pedal will go all the way to the floor. But a hard slam and brakes will hold.
Sticking is something that usually occurs in the brake booster,or a wheel cylinder hanging up.
Drums all around
 
Have you checked the brake fluid level? Have you had any recent brake work? How's the brake pedal height?

I just bought the car last week so not sure.

That's exactly where I was headed. It sounds as though you might have a leak, it starts to stop on initial pressure then fluid escapes releasing pressure.

Check fluid level, and look for a potential leak.
 
That's exactly where I was headed. It sounds as though you might have a leak, it starts to stop on initial pressure then fluid escapes releasing pressure.

Check fluid level, and look for a potential leak.
Okay when I pick it up from the glass guy I'll check the levels, pour in some brake fluid for the ride to the next shop. Im bringing it to have all 4 tires replaced but Id like to live on the way there!
 
I guess there's a ridge of rust inside the master cylinder that you are feeling in the pedal.
Was the car driven before you bought it?

If there's really rust inside the mcaster cylinder, I won't take long before it tears up the seals and fails completely. Be aware this could happen.
 
I guess there's a ridge of rust inside the master cylinder that you are feeling in the pedal.
Was the car driven before you bought it?

If there's really rust inside the mcaster cylinder, I won't take long before it tears up the seals and fails completely. Be aware this could happen.
The car had been sitting since Oct-Sept I believe when I bought it in Dec
 
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That's exactly where I was headed. It sounds as though you might have a leak, it starts to stop on initial pressure then fluid escapes releasing pressure.

Check fluid level, and look for a potential leak.

This is my first vintage car...is this the master cylinder and where ai fill the brake fluid?

mastercylinder.jpg
 
Normally you take off the cap and fill the brakefluid there until 1/2" below the edge.
But, looking at the rusty condition of that MC I would start thinking about replacing it real quick, and maybe even upgrade the entire brake system while you're at it if you like to drive/enjoy the car for a number of years to come.
 
Yes. Thats the master cylinder. Use dot 3 brake fluid.
Buy a proper battery hold down too, trust me,bungee cords dont hold batteries in place.
 
Looks like the car has been resting for a while.
 
Normally you take off the cap and fill the brakefluid there until 1/2" below the edge.
But, looking at the rusty condition of that MC I would start thinking about replacing it real quick, and maybe even upgrade the entire brake system while you're at it if you like to drive/enjoy the car for a number of years to come.

Which do I get?
upload_2017-12-24_17-5-42.png
or
upload_2017-12-24_17-6-3.png
 
Yours has manual brakes,no vacuum booster. So any of the three listed come with the push rod and boot.
Will need to bench bleed the master before replacing it.
Be warned, this could turn into a can of worms. Line fitting siezed to line,bleeders at wheel cylinders stuck/siezed or broken. Im fortunate enough to have the tools and been through this enough times,too many to count.
Go around and spray some pb blaster or whatever and give it time to soak and do its job.
A reason to buy a couple good flare nut wrenches.
 
I would like to express my concerns regarding brakes,beginners and the fact its a 2400 lb projectile.
Please do some research,know what you are getting into and do the best job you can.
To me,brakes and front end work should be left to experienced mechanics.
 
I agree with the above.
Also, before you start ordering stock replacement parts, go over the rest of the brake system first.
Wouldn't surprise me if everything needed attention, and, at that point I would advise in doing an upgrade at the same time. Like installing discbrakes for instance.
 
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