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Make sure the tubing is soft or there is a danger of breaking the lifter bore when you use the tool to peen the tube. Or a better suggestion, bush the bores and fix multiple issues at once.

So I've had my own strange issues in the past that I've had to work through and have been following this one a bit. I've dealt with the pushrod pinch on a number of different heads. Looking at your new rockers and then looking at these, I think there is some to gain from different rockers. At...

Just as you don't want to use 36 grit grinding discs on everything, I keep a bunch of used burrs that are no longer very aggressive for use on soft materials or jobs that just need touched up. My newer, sharp burrs are used when needed. How you use them has a lot to do with how long they last.

Sure would be nice if someone would whisper in my ear whose car these heads went on so I could check out their performance. IF anybody ever gets to go racing again.

A Stocker cam is no good for anything but a Stocker.

Big difference between what was legal then vs. now. Then, stock meant stock. Trim, interior, etc. Engine had to be the right castings, cam specs, valve springs, carb, intake, and I don't think anyone was doing acid porting. Or spinning them 8000 RPM. Wasn't all engine. Plenty of work done to the...

I feel your pain. I've chased guys out of my building for trying to peek under the cover at one I was putting together. :elmer: And you're taking pictures and showing them to everybody who walks by.

People are sloppy. I've gotten good blocks without caps, caps thrown in a bucket, caps from a couple of blocks thrown in a box together. I don't know why it was so hard to put the caps back on the block.

I understand, it may be a process to find usable caps for a block they've been lost from. But I wouldn't trash a good block just because the caps were missing or pass one up that was a deal.

Some people say they are better support, some say the blocks are so thin, they don't really help. I have no experience with 4 bolt caps on a stock block to have an opinion. "550ish HP" on an OE block is getting up there to where you need to pay attention to the details. Especially with some...

3.80 stroke, 6.440 rod, 1:70 rod ratio. 388CI. If I'm figuring right.

Could also go into a tall deck, long stroke, long rod deal. Also a .030 over stock 360 block. Think 4.125 or 4.250 stroke with a long rod. That 1/16-1/16-3/16 ring package is obsolete for a race deal, but a 418g. piston with light rods would make it pretty snappy. Looks like a nice piston for...

Either that or they would work in a long stroke/long rod combo. Also could go into a stock .030 over 360 block with a long rod and 4.125 or 4.250 stroke. That 1/16-1/16-3/16 ring package is old fashioned for a race deal. 418gr piston with some light rods would be pretty snappy.

Worth it? Depends on the price, condition, etc. If this was going to be a basic engine or was it going to be a race deal that could benefit from aftermarket caps and/or a line bore anyway. Plenty of worn out, broken blocks out there that could donate caps. Missing caps wouldn't be a deal...

That's a piston for a 3.79 stroke crank using a stock length rod. A nice combination. Those cranks are available. Never heard of a 3.59. That's why is asked.

I have a bit of time spent with a stock bottom end 340 at ~8k. Your needs depend on how much time you expect to spend up there and if you want it to get there in high gear as well as low gear. The big end of stock rods will go egg shaped after about 125 runs. You can take them out and fix...

340 or 360 really doesn't matter. I've used 360 cranks in a 340 block. Mains have to be cut to 340 size. Deck heights and stock rod length is the same. Pistons have to be the correct compression height for the stroke and the bore size. I.E., A piston for a .060 over 360 will go into a .020...

Bypass hose is just what it says - bypasses the radiator when the thermostat is closed. Gets the engine to come up to operating temperature quickly while allowing the coolant to circulate. No circulation means no warm coolant flowing at the stat and can cause hot spots and boiling coolant...

That will bring it to size, or close, but it won't swedge the bushing tight in the bore.

As in : I burnished my monkey this morning. And. : I gently Swedged the guy for being an asshole. Words have meaning.

The upper 1.500" smooth part of the shaft is .483". The rings are .487. The minor OD (grooves) of the rings are .433. The entire shank under the step is right at 1.800". The finish is very smooth. The rings have a fairly sharp edge. It's been awhile since I've used it. I called them...

Screw a gauge directly into the back of the block. Use adapters as needed. Eliminate the gauge and line you've been using until you get it figured out. Did it fill the oil filter?

Half the price of a complete R5P7.

The tool is used to drive it in. It is a slight press fit. Then the tool is drawn back through to expand it and finish the ID to size. The area of the shaft that's in the bushing while driving it is a few thou small to let it compress some. On the end of the shaft are 2 cutter/expansion...

If you are trying to achieve the desired "straight through" oil passage that is line of sight from the main to the rod, there isn't a lot of leeway either direction to maintain that. Changing timing beyond that requires an angle drilled "L" passage or crossdrilling. Especially if the journal...

"Velocity"? "Slow the flow so it doesn't blow past the passage"? Assuming the basic first step of a tube or bushings - sealing up the right galley at the #1 saddle (plug the left galley feed), and providing a sufficient pressurized feed to the front of the right galley should eliminate any...

I must not be able to make myself clear. Chevys run one dedicated main galley to oil the mains through passages around the the cam bores and then to the mains. 2 other galleys oil the lifters and heads. Aftermarket blocks delete the bypass around the cam and feed the main directly. I built...

"Yep. Dogbone style lifters with enough lobe lift to get it out of the hole and expose the undercut. I bush the bores and use solid body lifters. Fixed." Fixed THAT issue. There are other issues that the tubing/lifter bushing don't address.

Yep. Dogbone style lifters with enough lobe lift to get it out of the hole and expose the undercut. I bush the bores and use solid body lifters. Fixed.

And? The video title said "the" reason. I was pointing out there are multiple reasons to tube or, better yet, bush the bores.