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Picture of my housing ends with gage inserted. Mine are not perfect but work OK.

Here's what aggravated me. Picture of my back braced 8-3/4 housing being fab'd. What you see is a piece of driveshaft tubing I welded to the housing to shore up future indentations. You can see where the clamp force is concentrated. Doesn't mean the housing is junk though. If the housing ends...

This is exactly correct. A round shaped u-bolt on the clamped area will indent an 8-3/4 housing with factory torque even though that torque is low.

I do not believe that part number is a super stock spring. At least it does not appear in any chart I have for super stock springs. That PN also does not appear in the chart I have for the old drag racing springs that preceded The "P" series super stock springs. I am not sure what you have but I...

The P3412002 definitely belongs on the right (pass side). P3412003 belongs on the left (driver side). The table above from Oldmanmopar shows that. It is also shown that way in my Mopar Chassis manual.

Then IMO you have them installed correctly as they sit. I would leave them alone.

Did you recount the number of leafs at the perch? If the pictures on Summit are correct, then they both have 5 leafs. The bottom leaf on each spring looks kind of like a half leaf. The difference being that "half" leaf points forward on the 863 spring and points rearward on the 864 spring. That...

According to my Mopar Chassis manual, P4120863 is for right side, P4120864 is for left side. So it appears they are not backwards. They are correct as you installed them 10 years ago.

Be careful when you count. I have 002/003 springs. Count at the spring perches cause the leafs are in different positions and some of mine start right at the perch position and will fool you. From the rear my pass side spring appears to have 4 leafs and the driver side appears to have 5. At the...

Starting point IMO is - Is your right rear 2" taller than left? It should be as the frame/body measuring points should be in a single plane. There was certainly factory tolerance on that. DC 340

I had to notch mine particularly since I extended it to near the housing end. I think I used some driveshaft tubing to "box" it back in.

I have the 8th edition. I see caution wording in regard to shim installation saying "Overtightening can cause spring friction, which will produce a "booming noise inside the car." So there you have it. I'm not sure my doubt was worth the venomous response, but OK. Thanks.

I doubt that. I suspect 45 ft-lbs was determined by the factory to be sufficient in preventing a loosening of u-bolt nuts and/or decoupling of the spring, spring plates, and perch. A higher torque could/would crush the axle tube. But maybe RustyRatRod has a reference. I'm interested.

I never really used them for extra height. The SS springs I selected (002/003) along with Gabriel Hijackers gave that to me which I needed for tire clearance. The shock extensions guarantee I won't exceed the shock's allowable travel when launching the car. And the look is cool, at least to...

Seems to me air shocks are putting downward force rear of the axle housing since that's where they are mounted, thereby assisting the axle housing's natural twist. I understand there are differing opinions on this and RustyRatRod doesn't want to discuss. I'll just say I don't believe air...

Why and what is obvious?

I've read it (numerous editions) and understand the workings of a MOPAR rear suspension. I just don't recall any note regarding use of air shocks. It's been some time since I studied it however. Maybe you can provide a quote, year/chapter/page no. of the publication you refer to.

I'd like to see the analysis that supports that. I doubt it is true. The use of air shocks increases the arch of the rear springs, more or less the same as would result from a weight reduction in the rear of the car. That doesn't mean the MOPAR rear suspension is impeded. The starting point may...

I agree. My car has been air shocked for almost 4 decades and shows no sign of damage to the mounts. Chrysler may not have designed A bodies for air shocks but they work if mounted properly.

Wow - So many opinions to replace the entire rail is surprising to me. I would not do that. I would "piece meal" that repair by cutting out the sections needing repair one section at a time until the subframe is repaired. That way the subframe is where it is supposed to be, the majority of...

If you notice a tilt in the front, there should be a rough equal tilt in the rear. That is, for example, if driver's side is down in the front, the passenger side in the rear should be roughly the same amount higher. And vice-versa. If so, that's a sign the issue can be easily corrected. Is...

I just want to say John dealt fairly with me and I am a nobody on this site. I was happy someone was willing to make parts for the early A-bodies. He delivered what he said he would and of high quality and I appreciated the entire experience. I wish him the best and hope he is back here soon!

Interesting for sure. Not to say it's beyond the result of factory tolerance though. No one can know for sure I guess. BTW, I see an approximate 7mm up/down difference between the front rails on one of my cars with rails being level from rear to the firewall as you state. I'll be interested in...

I'm curious. Using your level, how do the rear subframe rails (level placed on a straight bar spanning the bottom of both rails) compare to the front subframe rails (same measure top or bottom)? A difference between the two can cause camber differences also even though the car, as a whole...

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I'll just say - If you snooze, you lose. The wreck involved no other vehicle other than my own. At only 35 mph on a winding road, crossed a ditch, cut down 3 trees or so, smacked at least one that wouldn't go down, and ended up on the roof. Talk about lucky, I didn't even get a traffic ticket...

That point hits home with me. I survived, with only minor injuries, this wreck of my '68 Barracuda without a seat belt! I was lucky enough to fall into the floorboard. I am so glad I was not "one with the seat" given I had no roll bar. Talk about a bad night...

Not to debate, but I've run air shocks on my '65 Barracuda for decades to keep the car off the tires. Nowadays I use 40 psi or so, but in the old days I used 90+ psi on a daily basis. I have never "ripped out my upper shock mounts". In fact, there is no sign of deformation or anything going on...

Wow! Within 4 hours, you measured it, bought the come-along, pulled it, responded here, and are on the way to return it. That is surely a record for solving a tweaked frame issue. Assuming you have the correct K-frame and the front mounting holes line up, having to move the rear mounting...

I am also guilty of running air shocks, Gabriel Hi Jackers, on my '65 Barracuda and I still love them. They were just cool when I grew up and I will never change my mind. The look of those white shocks under the rear of a jacked up hot rod is just too cool! I use them with the Cal Custom...