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Cool, I think you will be happy.

Of those two I vote xe256h, the xe250h will be too small, IMO

Run it, tune it, lets find out what it can do.

Best way I found for me: Spin the engine, watch exhaust #1 open, pass crank TDC mark, watch intake open, stop 10-40 degrees(helps to have good markings) before TDC 0 mark comes around, set distributor rotor pointing at #1 on cap. I used the 40 degree suggestion of another member on this forum...

I really don't think it is necessary to notch the bores either, just pointing out that they did do that in that particular build.

I only know what I read in this article. From the article: "Though the 2.02/1.60 valves clear a 318s bores with ease, we machined out the combustion-chamber walls near the head gasket line adjacent to the valves to minimize shrouding...The idea is to enhance flow..."

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/113-0304-318-small-block-build/

Wow, ok. Bit harsh there, I never thought installing a 4 degree advanced cam in a straight up position would get a "never in a million years" or "That's the stupidest thing I ever heard" response. I have read you can usually go 4 degree off the cam card either way for tuning. And that 4...

For example if the OP chose to run the lunati voodoo 10200700 then wouldn't it be better to remove the 4 degree advance on his engine combo?

Well by older I meant lower compression, as in most people like to over cam there low compression stock motor, so built in advance would help DCR. So if you are building a higher compression engine you can remove that advance, and that should help.

Interesting, I believe the reason that there is a 4 degree advance designed into the "centerline" of most cams is to increase DCR on most older engines. So would you agree that at least taking that out and installing them "straight up" on a fresh 10:1 may help things? But yes you are correct...

Do not open them up IMO. They already flow decent and will require more intake work if you go crazy on them. I know it is easy to focus on "port matching" but that is not what is important.

I have had bad luck with all my PCV set ups(cheap), where the leak oil and won't seal up.... I bought a billet aluminum PCV somewhere a while back(But can't remember where and can't find it) and plan to use it with a WIX #42997 or something close on my current build.

Awesome build. Very similar to my build except I am going for a bit more performance 2000-6000 RPM. Ok on the cam, it has a built in 4 degree advance to make up for low compression engines, so installing it 4 degrees retarded(from factory) or what would be center will help. It may help to...

Can't wait to see a vid, and hear how it performs. Awesome build.

Sorry I misunderstood, well depending on the bottom end plans, yes 400-650 for head would be a stock rebuild or maybe a valve size upgrade on a 318 head you already have. Some porting can be done using the guide in this forum, but to pay someone would easily double that price. I personally...

I don't think the ports are a big deal with the requirements you described. It is the compression that could be troublesome.

His build is in the 400-650 range, he shouldn't be looking at 10:1 pistons anyway... haha "Bolt on"s will get pretty decent results, maybe not some magic 275 hp number but who care if it is "quick" and fun to drive.

I am not that familiar with 340's but at 0 deck height they would have ~11.25:1 compression... obliviously too much. How far down are the low compression 340 pistons usually? .030 down would yield a bit over 10.25:1, which still may not work with the cam he has selected, but with a thicker...

I contacted them last month and they told me their piston was out of production and there would be a new one sometime after the new year, fyi. From what I understand pistons are not in the OP's budget so won't be a factor in this particular build. Such strong opinions on some of these...

If it is an out-of-hole 340 with .028 gaskets there will be contact sooner or later.

Might run decent if the compression isn't too high.

But if your goal is 275 hp start with the recommendations by "318willrun", if you pull the heads get some thin head gaskets to help. Should get you in the ballpark

There are so many ways to go about it that it is very hard to make basic recommendations. Do a lot of research on here and web searches. There are some magazine builds that attack the mild/moderate 318 builds from different angles. Basically you will probably want more compression, and...

I agree any factory 4 barrel intake will be way better than the 2 barrel set up. Go with what you kind find for cheap.

Completely agree. But for the few that would never be happy with easy horsepower... pushing the limits can be awesome, or disappointing... My car is on the fairly light side(3200ish) so that may help me out some. And I am not afraid of lots of tuning to get it right. I don't have an engine...

I am currently building engine on the high side of DCR. This kind of stuff has always been interesting to me, so I wanted to build an engine like this. My build is a 71 318 bored .030 over, with Icon 844 pistons, 302 heads, and a Comp XE284 cam. The machine work is not finished yet and so I...

I have heard different numbers for perfect quench, but it seems to be .035-.045" from most sources and if your in that range it may help your engine run on regular with 9.5 SCR. Though one note is the KB pistons state minimum .040" clearance.

Because it supposed to help prevent detonation. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Quench " A quench distance of ~0.040" will allow a high performance engine to run without detonation using less octane than would otherwise be needed. Of course this is providing that all the other...

I am doing a similar build right now. It will have the ICON pistons instead of the KBs and I am using 302 heads. I have 1.88 1.60 SS valves in and have not checked CC on them yet. I am aiming for 9.75 SCR and will be running the comp XE 284, but I plan/hope to run on premium. I want to run...