Search results for query: *

Go with the 230, and don't look back. I think the 230 is a floor shift only tranny, but in my experience, it is a good tranny and it was available on the 383 magnum in 1970 B-Bodies, so it has to be strong. If it's good enough for a 340 in A-Bodies or a 383 magnum in B-Bodies, Chrysler had to be...

Yes. The B-Body ones are longer and they mount under the dash differently.

No, they won't bolt in. Same for the reverse as in A-Body pedals in a B-Body. If you are good at fabricating, you can make anything work... You are better off trading the B-Body pedal set for A-Body ones that will bolt up. FYI, the B-Body ones are worth more money depending on the year of course...

And rightly so.

My crystal ball says it's a metallurgy or adjustment issue. It also says that I'm going to meet a tall dark stranger.......

You'll never regret going with a Dana rear end. It's good insurance and it looks good doing it!

Pretty much the same problem and the same solution that you came up with. The engine was in the car which made it worse! So, the Quick Time was more centered to the crank than the Lakewood?

Thanks for the response. Too bad that Shumacher isn't in business anymore. The reason that I was asking about the bell housing is that I knew a guy that had a Lakewood bell housing and it was a real P.I.T.A to get the hole centered to the crank. I take it that you have a small bolt pattern 8...

Cool car! I have a few questions: What headers are you running? How much of a pain was it to get the bell housing centered to the transmission? What is the rear end and the gear ratio? Thanks, Tom.

It sounds to me like the clutch doesn't have enough free play or the disc itself or throw out bearing is faulty. Another possibility is the fork is bent slightly (twisted) and when everything heats up, there goes your free play/disc departure. The first thing I would do would be put it on a lift...

Thanks for the pictures showing the differences. What I may add, is that I run a set of pedals from a '75 slant six car in my '74 Dart Sport 360 4 speed with the over center spring removed and a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch set up (diaphragm), and it works perfectly. All other linkage etc...

Any '67 to '76 A-Body pedals will bolt in and be perfectly functional.

Post #35 and #36 are both correct. (For their own reasons)

Well, this sucks doesn't it? Hopefully you'll get lucky and find out it's not too bad inside. The least that you'll have to do is replace the bearings and clean it all up. Let us know about the autopsy results with pics if you can..........

Just a guess here, Rob. You found a bell housing for a big block, but it's in a truck? I doubt very much if the bolt pattern is the same as a 230, but I'm not positive. Same goes for the bearing retainer dimensions. What I would do is to slip the 230 into the bell housing, mark the holes, and...

I don't think it should ''Squat and go''. It should lift the back end and go. If it's lifting the back end, the axle is moving down toward the road surface and planting the tires. This is with a Mopar leaf spring car of course. When you launch, the front end and the rear of the car should rise...

Pinion angle, springs, and shocks. I have never heard of a Mopar having wheel hop unless the springs are very bad or the shocks are terribly worn out. My set up is a '74 Dart Sport 360 regular 4 speed 3:55 geared 8 3/4, 255 60 15 tires with Super Stock springs (003, 004) with the M.P. shocks for...

I run a Centerforce diaphragm clutch in my '74 Dart Sport 360 4 speed. It works awesome, and I removed the over center spring as well, (it tells you that in the instructions). Just so you know, removing the spring with the pedals in the car is a PITA. Stacking coins, washers, etc. in the spring...

I would be tempted to just shorten one and brace it properly, but I probably would just find the right one. Either way would work just fine........

I use Pennzoil Syncromesh transmission oil in mine. Good stuff. I got it at Napa. You must use a GL-4 oil or Dexron 2 ATF. Do not use synthetic (if the transmission is stock), it is too slippery and will cause gear clashing from my experience, and it's too bad because I am a firm believer in...

72bluNblu is right, but these different floors are '75 and '76 to provide room for the cat con. On a '75 and '76 A-Body, with the floor raised in this area, the bucket seat track is shorter on the driver's side close to the transmission tunnel as well. (A little bit of trivia) Some cars in these...

What is the budget? That's the only way we can offer legitimate suggestions. 12s mean a lot of engine. Gears, suspension, driving technique all comes into factor here. The 230 transmission is a good one, but wouldn't be my choice for your goals. You need 400 H.P. to do this, and it's too weak...

Nice job, it looks really good. There's nothing wrong with the 230 transmissions, I've had a few and found them fun........and strong!

All is good, man! I'm just trying to be funny........ Tom.

Dartnught? Do you mean me? Thanks anyway. lol.......

Great advice. I'm also thinking that it might be a truck or industrial application.........

They are definitely not scrap! I had a '71 Demon with the 230 floor shift, 3:23 geared 8 3/4 rear end and a 318, a great combo for sure and a '72 Duster with a 198 slant 6 and the good old 230 3 by the knee, another great combo! To drive one is to love one............. If you lived closer, I...

Agreed 100%! I sure wish that i was able to be active in the trade still. However, after two knee surgeries, back problems, and now arthritis, i was forced to find another occupation. The over 20 years i spent in the trade were good to me, and i loved it. Also, i was always very big on wearing...

Agreed! I believe all of the credit goes to Syleng 1 for the good explanation, i only added my two bits.

Awesome advice! Cudos to you for explaining this process so well. As a journeyman welder myself, i have used this exact procedure with excellent results. I have repaired all sorts of castings such as bell housings, exhaust manifolds, cast iron transmission pans, etc. with Ni Rod and it works...