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If the slant 6 is deleted, what are you putting in in it's place?

Very nice.

From your original post, I thought that you wanted to put the engine AND K-Member out of your A-Body into a B-Body. If the B-Body already has a slant 6 K-Member in it, it is as simple as using the mounts and insulators from the B-Body engine and swapping them onto the good engine and it'll bolt...

The frame rails are about 1'' wider on a B-Body, so the A-Body K-Member won't interchange.

What a cool car! I say get it on the road and drive it. You're almost guaranteed that nobody else has one like it...

You got a lot of good items. How much did you pay for it all? If it's under $500 you got a screaming deal...

I would just solder the holes shut if you need to. Of course use a soldering iron or gun, not a torch. Don't even THINK of mig welding them!

As a Mopar hoarder, (my friends and family call me that) I rarely throw anything away especially engine, transmissions, and rear ends....and lots of other tidbits. For people that are throwing things away or scrapping them, I go and load them up and take them away for free when I can. If someone...

I always wondered why they didn't put one in from the factory. I guess the buck that they saved on one bolt for each engine adds up. Maybe it was because they were a low R.P.M. engine?

Am I missing something? It doesn't look that hot in there to me....

As much as I agree with the use of a newer ''Denso'' starter, I still am old school and love the sound of the old style Chrysler gear reduction starters. It's kinda what makes old Mopars unique and immediately identifiable amongst the sea of brand X cars in the parking lot.

I've been doing that for years. Back in the day, a lot of guys laughed at me for being a hoarder. Now, i'm having the last laugh with them because who do they come to for some obscure little part? Yep, it's me. To piss them off further, I simply give the part to them or charge a small amount........

If it is running good without any apparent problems, I would just run it and forget you saw that aluminum chunk. I would keep it though, so when the engine finally explodes, you can match it up with the other parts during the autopsy....... Just kidding! To me it looks like a chunk of the piston...

I like it! It proves that a race car doesn't have to be purdy to have fun and be competitive.............

Badassery at it's finest!

I still don't ''Bleeb'' it...........

That's pretty damn cool. It has a helluva bark to it!

If you don't think the engine is ''sludged up'' very much, then I would run a quart of ATF in it with the next oil change and run it for 200 miles. (with a new filter of course) ATF has a lot of detergents in it. If it's sludged up badly, then the safe thing to do is to pull the valve cover and...

How much did you have to remove? (Roughly) Pics?

If nothing else, the open end of the loop (red plug) goes down towards the frame.

I've still got 2 of them. One cast iron and one aluminum with the funky porous welds. I also had another one that was complete with all of the linkage etc. in a running Volare. The car was rusty and had a broken ball joint, but is was a great parts car. My brother had it crushed without taking...

Just do it and not look back........

He's right. One thing I will add is that even if it's 100 degrees out, a cold engine needs to be warmed up for at least a few minutes before driving if it doesn't have a choke or heat under the carb.......

Now, that's funny!

Thanks for correcting my post, Dan. The 1980 thing was mixed up, I meant to say that the last year for solid cams was 1980 and in 1981 they went with hydraulic cams. And as for the 198 thing, I thought I was right because a few years back, I looked at a '72 Scamp that was for sale locally, and...

Hydraulic lifters started for the 1980 model year. Before then, all of the slant sixes had solid lifters with adjustable rockers. Another easy way to tell a 170 or 198 from a 225 without looking at the numbers is to look where the water pump and head outlets are. The short deck (G engines) have...

Good work! Keep it up!

Great article, thanks for sharing! More and more each day you are proving yourself to be slantsixdan!

I would pull it apart to check out the condition of the insides anyway. And also to make sure that the float is adjusted properly etc. and it is clean and everything is there. If you have any doubts, replace parts as needed. Keep in mind that a lot of N.O.S. parts were not put on cars when they...

You hit the nail on the head. I've used these a few times, and with great success. To the O.P., use this bearing and forget about the ovalled out pilot bushing hole in the end of your crank. I also think using the bearing is actually better than the factory bushing anyway.........