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I would drop the pan and see what is in the bottom of it. Then change the filter and put new fluid in it. It may be saveable, but I doubt it.

Contact a reputable torque convertor specialist who can suggest the stall you need for your build. They will need all the information about the build, including the specs on your drive train. Convertor building has come a long way in the last 10 years, take advantage of the builders knowledge.

Try putting a bottle of friction modifier in it first.

I made friends with the local transmission builder close to me. If I need parts, he will let me scavenger through his parts bins. He doesn't build that many Mopar transmissions, but he has a shelf that id 7' tall by 4' wide by 4' deep with 5 shelves on it full of 904 and 727 pieces. In another...

That is pretty much a factory convertor, I'm not sure about the weights. If you plan on using it, I would have it flushed and checked out first.

It has definitely been modified, the axles are early 60's axles that the hubs pressed onto. I ran that type of rear in a 64 Max Wedge 4 speed car years ago before swapping in a Dana from a 70's B body.

If you go decide to go to the Crosby car show let me know, I'm about an hour away from there.

What part of Houston will you be visiting in April? I'm a few miles NE of Houston.

Pro Trans in California, a friend of mine used one of the weirdly low gears sets in his R 3 built to the hilt stroker motors.

Just FYI, Pro Trans has a very good selection of lower gear sets.

My question would be, why no dipstick?

Is the kickdown linkage/cable set correctly, is the kickdown setup for a 2 barrel or 4 barrel carburetor?

The posi units for the big Olds/Pontiac units are still available, I've seen some on HAMB over the last year or so.

I know I'm not a numbers matching guy, although I was in the past. These days I build my cars to suit me, not the masses. I was roasted when I first joined about cutting up a 71 Demon 340 4 speed car. Fortunately I wasn't to blame, the car had been chopped up long before I took possession. These...

If the rear is set up properly, you'll have a hard time breaking it. I abused both of mine that I talked about in post #8 and never had any problems

In the late 70's there were disc brake conversions offered for them, before that most all were run with 11 x 2 1/2 brake drums and shoes. The swap was also popular with the 55-57 BelAir guys. I ran one under my 27 Ford roadster truck and my 39 Ford Deluxe coupe way back in the 60's.

Most of them were the big GM pattern of 5" x 5" BS. The nice thing about the axles were that there was a wide enough flange to drill between the big pattern holes for whatever pattern you wished.

Try cleaning with CRC Electromotive and the apply a very "light" machine oil. After the oil has had a few minutes to soak in, try spinning the end of the drive "slowly" with a cordless drill to see if it does any good.

Plenty of members have sold the gears on the site, put a "Wanted ad" and see what shows up.

We need more information, other than C4 Ford trans.

It sounds like the individuals you dealt with couldn't spell mechanic, much less be one. "Yesterday I couldn't spell Mecanik, today I are one". LMAO

Call CRT, I'm sure they can fix you up. Or PM CRT here to get the info you need.

If the lines were steel, it's a "very" good chance they were double flared.

@Hyper_pak

To be sure, I would measure center to center of the u joints with the car on all four wheels. It could be catastrophic if the shaft is too long. "Measure twice, cut once."

The 66 273 has the small register hole on the crankshaft , be sure to measure both the converter hub and the crankshaft register.

I believe that all of the mounts are the same, two bolts through the mount to the tail housing and a nut to secure the mount to the cross member.

Try unbolting the driveshaft and rotating it 180* and see if that helps.

As stated, with enough traction, you can destroy any rear axle. We need to know what your final intentions are, street car, race car,

If you can find the diff cover with the set screws that hold the bearing caps, that's one way to add a little strength.