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If up grading, use either a drum master cylinder if you are using drum brakes of a drum/disc and a proportioning valve master cylinder. Make sure the components match.

Master cylinder from your local parts store. or get the PN from them and look it up on Rock Auto.

Doc, if you bought all of the inventory you could probably make enough of a profit over a period of time to finance your builds. But, you have to be willing to take the time to either swap meet the stuff or post it here and on market place. This might be a great learning and teaching curve for...

If you are going for a "top notch" restoration, be ready to say good bye to your car for at least a year and possibly longer. The shop owner should allow you to check on the progress personally, as well as sending up updates in pictures. If you aren't able to check on the car in person, be sure...

B engine with spacers, RB without spacers.

Just keep in mind that it might be a police car engine. To me, that means a ton of abuse and possibly poor maintenance but it's probably worth the chance.

The problem is, a lot of people in this world these days DO NOT care and they take NO pride in their work. The world as a lot of us knew it is going to hell in a hand cart. A lot of the general public these days do JUST enough to get by and collect a pay check. I shudder to think where we would...

Edelbrock went down after Vic passed on, but it got even worse after Cammie sold out.

I'd take 3k with me, offer 2k and negotiate from there. If I got lucky and got it for 2k, I'd use the remaining 1k to get it safe for the street and drive it.

Any heads that I buy, no matter from whom are immediately taken to the machine shop to be checked out. Many years ago, I took someones word on a set and dropped a valve on initial start up due to wrong retainers and keepers.

If I were 20 years younger, I'd take that on. At 72, that's a bit more of a project than I could handle.

How much of a discount does the number get you?

Aluminum, or steel?

I got some old Honda rotors and place them on the feet of my pop up canopy. They have just enough weight to hold it and are small enough to keep them in a wooden box.

If the housings are pitting, you are going to pay big bucks to get them restored as stated. The pits are picked with something similar to a dentist's pick to get it all out. From there they are plated with copper and polished down multiple times until the surface is even and flat. Then they are...

Ask around and see if any members are close to them.

It looks to be in a salvage yard. If it were me and I bought it, I would take pictures of the person selling it, as well as a picture of their ID.

As best I can remember, only two of my cars ended up is a salvage yard. Unfortunately, they were rusted "way beyond" repairing from being in the Galveston salt air for too many years.

I really like the older C bodies, that one looks like a real prize.

FYI, they make 6 gallon buckets that worked well when I was transporting 8 3/4 third members. I screwed a piece of 3/4" plywood to the bottom of the bucket so it didn't topple over.

Mid life crisis, I bought my race car at 58 years old. I'm now on the verge of turning 72 and have really enjoyed the journey. It started as a painted roller and has progressed to a mid 10 second car. Now I'm in the late stages of putting the car in the low 9 second bracket.

As suggested, get in touch with Dr Diff and explain what you have to get his input on what you may want to use gear wise.

I wish the OP would step in and tell what if any of the suggestions were tried, it seems to be radio silence for him.

To flush the cooling system try used Cascade dish washer "powder" DO NOT use the tablets. It will really do the trick for you, just make sure you flush it well to get all of it out.

As suggested, the head gasket in a can stuff might help temporarily. I've used the K & W fiberlock a while back and it did seal it up.

The video car is the orange 73-76 Dart that does the burn out at the beginning of the video.

Nice looking caravan of vintage Mopars.

I'm aware of the differences in the heads, I was curious as to which you were running.

Are you running true TA heads with the offset pushrods, or just the LA heads with the 2.02 valves?

What is the story on the 65 Coronet 500 in the background?