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I think you are thinking of the plate in the snorkel that closed and caused the engine to draw warm air off the exhaust manifold during warm up (I think?). The trapdoor was setup to be pulled closed by vacuum and only open when vacuum dropped enough and the spring forced it open, like at full...

Other points of data are this is using a '73+ spool mount k-frame and stock motor mounts.

To be clear, this is a Hughes intake based on the RPM AirGap. Don't think it is any shorter than the standard AG intake, but I could be wrong...

In another thread I mentioned that I have an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake with a 1/2" carb spacer, AFB carb and a '72 trap door air cleaner and didn't have clearance issues with my hood. This prompted a request to take some measurements to see how much clearance there was. Instead of...

If you aren’t required to run a ‘71 TQ, I would build it as a ‘71. Just because I like the look of the ‘71 better. :)

I'm confused. The '72 air cleaner was very different than the '73 and up and technically was "unsilenced" when the trap door opened. Not arguing that it didn't suck hot air and kill performance when compared to the '71, only that it wasn't the same as the '73 and later ones that only had...

My gut says it is a wash. This is based on the guess that while the trapdoor opening is probably a larger opening, it draws from right off the top of the intake. So the '71 unsilenced air cleaner might (just a guess) draw less air, it will draw (marginally) cooler air. I say buy both and take...

You can see the canister on mine well enough. Not saying he didn't cut his off, just that the canister isn't hidden.

I thought the '72 had a trap door and vacuum canister on the PS. That looks like a '73 or something?

I sold the one I had a couple of months ago. Appreciate the mention though.

Here are the numbers I have listed per Gary Lewallen. Model| Application...................| Pri....| Sec...| Rod...| Bore...| Kit 6138 | 72 340 MT F (3614122) | 4095 | 5137 | 1940 | 1-3/8 |1 6139 | 72 340 AT F (3614123) | 4095 | 5137 | 1940 | 1-3/8 |1 Based on that, looks like it is...

In my opinion, still easier than swapping to an aftermarket kit.

All he needs is the correct rod. Seems like a much easier swap that starting over with an aftermarket setup. Take about 5 minutes to swap and he wouldn't even have to get under the car. The cable setup would involve jack stands and a fair amount of monkeying around.

I think you need something like this: 4-bbl kick-down rod

Looks like the wrong rod to me. Doesn't look like the slot is pulled all the way up to the throttle, so it is too short as well as all the wrong bends. FYI, only the rod shown is wrong. The rod that goes down behind the block and the one from there to the trans are the same between the 2bbl...

Here's what I ended up doing. Cut down the injector spacers and threaded in some 1/4 set screws with red Loctite.

That was suggested in post #16, and my reasoning for not doing so followed. Not out of the question, but I am fixing to use some cheap injector spacers to make my own.

I should add that I lean towards running the current MP dual plane rather than a set of injectors to plug the holes. I don't have to run the RPM right now, it's not the only intake I have. Like my buddy said; "How much am I willing to spend now to avoid having to swap the intake later?" Not...

Still not convinced everything would clear, but it is an idea. Can't rule it out. I do have a buddy I have been prodding to see if he could make some plugs. Have some doubt it will pan out, but you never know. Hate to ask him to cut 8 of these things, just feels like a ton of work.

That's the same kit Ehrenburg used on the Savvy Savoy project. Looks like a home built bracket using one of the TB bolts?

Don't see a way to run the throttle linkage bracket if I do that. I could be wrong, pretty sure they would interfere.

Interesting. I'd want some kind of step just to make sure the rod couldn't slide further down and drop into the intake tract. Thanks for that, I didn't have any idea what the sizes were.

Saw those and others similar, but only from a company in Australia or the UK. Not sure they would be here before summer is over and I am ready to do the swap. :D Yep, that's what I started to think about as well. Doesn't look bad and, in theory, wouldn't be difficult. I do hesitate to...

I thought about that but almost certain that they would interfere with the throttle bracket. If I have to buy parts to make that work, then I will just wait and swap the intake when I go to EFI.

The push in plugs here are kind of cool: Threadless Not sure if they would work. But something like that with an added small blind hole between then injector holes to hold a flat plate down so the plug couldn't be pushed out if there were a backfire or something.

I wonder if something like this would work, but with a plug in it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G87D95R/?tag=fabo03-20

They make those small enough? Like 9/16" just as a guess.

Something like this: And then maybe a strap from intake bolt to intake bolt?

I'm nearing the end of my cam swap and getting to the point of dropping the intake back on. The thing that is killing me is that I have a Hughes FI AirGap under my bed and I would really rather bolt that on now. But I don't plan to do the EFI swap until next fall, really don't want to chance...

I figured there had to be other reasons for it besides the one I was familiar with. LOL