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And don't forget being able to R&R the intake manifold without draining the coolant ;)

On my low-deck '72 with B-body headers, the left side plugs are easy and reached from above. Since I have a motor plate and the alternator up high on the right, #2 and #4 are best reached from underneath. #8 is easy from above. Notice I didn't mention #6 either :realcrazy: A 1-1/2" hole saw to...

'67-up has a larger engine compartment than the early A's. The lowdeck is easier to install but still a royal PITA, true. But it's worth it when you hit the pedal. I wouldn't trade my 451 for anything unless it was for a 470 or a 499 :steering:

The old saying is, "Speed costs money, son. How fast do you want to go?" :p And, for how long...

Well... it's not my money I'm spending here ;) But the rod bolt is one of the most highly stressed fasteners in the engine, and that is an area I would concentrate on making sure it was right... if a bearing spins or a rod breaks, the labor and expense to repair the mess would have made it worth...

This may be obvious to some, but when pressing out rod bolts and inserting new ones, check the big ends for roundness. Sometimes they will distort a surprising amount (or may not have been correct in the first place).

The ones in the picture (of everything spread out) don't look like BB A-body manifolds to me... but the real thing is going for low four figures (383) and even more for the rare 440 ones. Are you sure someone actually gave a pair away with a core engine? If so, sell them and you can not only buy...

Beat me to it. I was going to say, two large tubes will work better than three smaller tubes.

That is also my experience with my 451 (26" 3-row aluminum radiator and Contour fans with an Autocoolguy PWM controller). It will idle in 95F traffic or standstill and maintain 183 all day. But at 65 mph (3300 rpm) it very slowly creeps up to 198 over about 20-30 minutes. If I hold it down to...

You forgot Edelbrock, SI Valves, maybe a few others :poke: :p

Thank you :) As it turned out, that wasn't my problem. The intake ports were indeed leaking at the bottom on both sides, but that's because the tips of my Performer RPM were hanging up slightly on the end rails. A couple of minutes with a burr and die grinder and all is sealed ;)

Regarding possible milling of my intake manifold flanges: Does anyone know what the angle of the intake surfaces on a B engine is? I assume the intake manifold and the head have the same angle so they meet flush. (It appears that mine do not at the moment). Is it symmetric (left and right)? If...

That is precisely what I did :thumbsup: It's a little hard to see in the picture I posted earlier, but there is one thin shim between each rocker and the hold-down. (Two in one location where I ground too much). Thanks :)

Thanks for the explanation :thumbsup: If I see any evidence of that after another few thousand miles (or ever make it to the strip 90 miles away where I can run it up to 6500+, that's just not safe on the street), I can always remove the shafts in the car and re-setup with spacers.

Yep, it's me car. ;) I only drive the Dart to cruise-ins and car shows. Furthest I've driven is 40 miles one-way. 11 mpg highway, a 10 gallon fuel cell, and 3.91 gears with no OD doesn't make for a good daily driver or highway cruiser! I also spend July, August, September away from home and I...

I have the springs, I don't have the spacers, and those springs have been working for the last three years and 1,370 miles :)

Maybe they have already been narrowed then? Either way they're not rubbing anywhere...:) (no interference on the old iron heads either).

actually I'm not sure, but maybe just OEM Mopar adjustable rockers. I got them from Andy since he said they'd work fine with my cam/springs, and they have for 1300+ miles (although not 1/4 mile at a time) ;) I spent an afternoon on the belt/disc sander narrowing the aluminum hold-downs, then...

Really?? Nobody told me! (/s) I am only inquiring as to this particular aspect of geometry with these specific rockers. Given that the pad is designed to slide on the valve tip, my theory is that side-to-side alignment is not critical. As mentioned above, as long as the pad stays on the valve...

Good edit. Yes, by lateral alignment I did mean centered side to side over the valve. For the previous setup I used stock hold-downs and also ground the tabs off. Still looked jury-rigged but didn't show any unusual wear after 1300 street miles. It looks like I can take .080 off each side of...

I finally got around to swapping my iron heads (set up with ductile iron rockers and the original stamped steel hold-down tabs). Now the aluminum heads are going together on the bench, and of course the valve gear doesn't line up the same with studs and aluminum hold-downs. My cam has .652...

#6 is on the passenger side... which one did you mean, #5? :)

Yes... it makes it VERY much easier! They're great as long as you don't mind cutting up the fenderwells, and having the tubes hit the ground, body and tires ;)

I would think it has to be due to that huge flattened kink as it goes around the steering column. :eek: No way to be absolutely sure without a flow test. And then, on every particular combo, it would have to be comparison-tested on the dyno vs. a non-kinky manifold.

I agree... since his plugs still look dark, the primary mains are probably still too rich. It's surprising how lean the primaries can be for a good cruise mixture (AFR of 15:1 or even higher, if it doesn't surge) with the proper PV and PVCR. I

Yes, that is frequently said and is completely wrong. This misinformation keeps popping up (and I think Holley tech is still telling people this). It's only close if you have a very mild cam so idle vacuum is high (and well above cruise vacuum). I suppose they tell the average 350 SBC owner this...

I only have 41 years experience wrenching on my vehicles, so #6 plug is a little harder for me. :rolleyes: Also I don't have two elbow joints in each arm which you would need if you had my (Hedman 78030 B-body) headers and no inner fender hole.

My 451 Dart is of this variety :D

How is the ground clearance?

I don't believe they would work well with a 440. I have the set in the BBD pictures, and it's tight in places with the B block (but minimal dimples in only a couple places). The RB is taller and wider, of course, and enough tubes may need to be reworked to make a purpose-built header a better...