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Automotive Retainers, Clips and Fasteners - ClipsAndFasteners.com I’ve purchased a lot of things thru here. Have to buy quantity’s some times but they have a lot of hard to find things.

As above. But I’ll add to check cowl drains to make sure they’re not clogged with leaves etc.

Here’s my 71 Demon. New weatherstrip.

Best I’ve got on my Demon.

I bought the clear windshield for my 71 Demon. Very heavy. In my opinion well made. Same thickness as the original. Even has the Pentastar in the lower middle.

That I can’t answer for sure as I don’t have that knowledge. I know my 71 Demon was built in 10 of 70. But based off that 03 72 would be a mid to late production year car. March 1972

From the back, if this is the part you’re questioning, it looks like 302 to me.

Door sticker sure looks like 3 72 to me.

You use any of the car washes with rotating brushes? Last picture almost looks like paint is cracking under clear, but it polished out unless the clear is lifting and the polishing levels it back out. Kind of strange.

Thing is with epoxy primer most have a dwell time to be top coated or they have to be sanded or reshot. If you do epoxy then shoot with finish primer you may be ok. Read your primers information.

Assuming you’re talking about the rear jamb that’s got the latch post, the major difference is the the Dart has a roll up rear window the Demon/Duster do not. I don’t believe it has much to do with the door itself.

Looks like this https://www.southco.com/en-us/tl-sl Or https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32812455 Hopefully that puts you on a track.

The originals on my 71 Demon had the “bumps” as well as the AMD replacements. It was built 10/70. I’d think the “bumps” would give the flange more strength plus maybe allow some give in that area.

X2 on AMD. I used the front on my Demon. Same as original as far as thickness etc. I purchased thru Summit which was cheaper than going direct to AMD.

I keep this around for general uses. Works good for vapor barriers too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1L4/?tag=joeychgo-20

I don’t know your finances, but for a bit more.... Auto Metal Direct Taillight Panels 900-2371

Big bracket is for emergency brake cable. I don’t have an exact position and not sure how accurate it has to be. These are best I’ve got. Hopefully you can see it. I believe if it’s in line with frame rail bracket where cables to differential mount you should be ok.

push out side window seals?? There are some links in this thread that may help you.

1972 Dodge Dart Parts | 3573143 | 1972 Dodge Dart / Sport Dart Grill Assembly | OER Might try these guys also. Maybe call them. To check status. Issue I’ve seen over the years is that a lot of repro items don’t hold up, radiator shrouds, lenses etc. Seems they sag and deform over time...

Seems like I read some where these are on back order may be worth a phone call. Well I can’t get link to post correct. They’re the only ones I know of that had them. LAYSON'S RESTORATIONS - DODGE, CHRYSLER, PLYMOUTH RESTORATION PARTS

Yes sir. Just trying to give the guy a heads up. You’re sharp and are way more knowledgeable than I.

I have read on here in other posts before that there have been some issues on the upper part of the qtr to door missing part of the extension on the qtr so to speak. Not saying that’s your issue but compare the drivers side in that area closely. Another problem I have noticed with the...

Quarter glass question The front “flock” seals are very delicate and easy to damage when reinstalling the glass to the frame. The above link is a very good how to.

If the A5 is your favorite color, you’ve answered your question. I believe it’s your car do it the way you want and not worry. That’s my opinion.

I believe what is being referred to, when a panel is welded, the weld is more rigid than the surrounding metal. Sometimes when the sun bakes on it for a while the difference in the thermal expansion between the weld and surrounding areas will make the weld seam visible. At least that’s what I...

I don’t think you want to use anything that holds grit or grime. I cleaned mine and sprayed them with dry graphite film.

These what you’re looking for? Herb's Parts - Mopar Restoration and Performance

I’m going to ask maybe a dumb question for my learning. I had a 69 charger and I swear I could lock it by locking the door and pushing the button on the door handle as I closed it and the door would remain locked. Maybe had to hold button in on door handle and then push lock down. But it seems...

Yes. That’s why I said determine how long your willing to wait to drive it. It took me six years. But that wasn’t just paint and body. I went big block. Basically everything I did myself. Except putting the covers on the seats, engine and trans. When it got cold I’d do other things steering...

Yes I fought the temp thing with the epoxy primer. I used his epoxy, 2k, and clear with PPG base. If you go the route of doing it yourself make sure you use a quality respirator. As far as primer you could section off different areas. Going to depend on what you find body wise too. I hit the...