Search results for query: *

I soaked mine in Evaporust for a few hours. Came out looking like new.

I put @crackedback s relay kit in my 73. Excellent product, excellent value, excellent results with Nighthawks.

I'm at the point that it's less painful in the long run to take the front seat right out before attempting any work under the dash :(

I installed his headlight kit in my 73 Duster. Top quality, excellent fit and worth every penny. Now my headlights light up the road like any modern vehicle. I totally recommend this upgrade.

I just went through this. Take a look at DELCO 3371096, or NAPA NEU 4N6415. The NAPA starter lists the following: Dodge B150 1/2 Ton - Van 1991 - 1993 Dodge B250 3/4 Ton - Van 1991 - 1993 Dodge B350 1 Ton - Van 1990 - 1993 Dodge B350 1 Ton - Van 1994 - 1994 Dodge D150 1/2 Ton - Pickup 1991 -...

My Speedhut gauge is totally accurate. I calibrated it with the sender in the tank.

Have you tried to re calibrate it with the sender back in the tank and registering where the empty and full fuel levels actually position the float arm? Maybe the result will be better then a bench calibration where I assume you used both limits of travel on the float arm for programming full...

I installed Speedhut gauges, and the Gas Gauge uses the stock (aftermarket) sender. I manually calibrated the gauge to the sender so that "F" is full, and "E" means 10 litres left in the tank. This gauge is dead bang on accurate at virtually any spot between F and E. Easily the most accurate...

To kick start a 4 year old thread, I just installed an Electronic flasher and yes, problem solved. BTW my headlights are on relays, but that still didn't help the stock flasher.

Thanks guys for the quick responses. FABO rocks.

Hmmm...yeah I was wondering something like that but this one is bone-dry

I pulled my rotor off to have a closer look, and underneath it kind of stuffed into the center shaft was a small piece of felt about 1/4"x1/2". The second picture below wasn't taken right at that moment, it's a forensic re-creation of how I think I remember it looked. :eek: Curious as to...

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. My Bulkhead Connectors have all been dismantled and cleaned up and I am running Crackedback's headlight kit, so I'll leave as is for now but keep it on my radar. Should have mentioned, I'm replacing the stock cluster with new Speedhut gauges, so the Ammeter...

When connecting these 2 wires together to bypass the Ammeter, I am thinking of just connecting the 2 ring connectors with a bolt, (or a steel rivet?) and heat shrinking it. (Little faith in my soldering skills). Is there any downside to this approach? Thanks FABO!

Not sure if you are talking about one of those "cube shaped" E-coils, but here is how I mounted my 45,000V Beer Can style coil on the back of my Airgap manifold if this helps - it's Oil filled so it needs to hang vertically. (Homemade bracket)

If you're talking about this one on the wiper motor assembly, I think it's got something to do with 2 speeds for the wipers. Not about ignition anyway.

No worries! FWIW, your dizzy looks identical to mine, which is a Top Street Performance TSP-JM6713BL (I think the BL means blue cap). If that's what you've got, that's the one you need. Cheers.

Regarding your question re the wiring alterations, here is what I did on my 73 Duster. I know zilch about wiring and I had major sphincter lock about making these changes. All hail to the mighty @TrailBeast who finally helped me to understand it. In the spirit of "measure 100 times, cut once" I...

Greetings to Edmonchuck: Further to post #2, here are a few pictures: The fuse block is mounted just outboard of the Ebrake handle. Another shot looking at it from the top: The rear harness runs down behind the Drivers' side kick and into the tunnel along the rocker: Out of the tunnel...

Here's my 73. When I re-wrapped my harnesses and did my Ready to Run mods I separated the "lighting" wire bundle (pass side connector) from the "engine" wire bundle (center connector), as they were originally all wrapped together.

The red wire is switched power (accessory position on the key) and the orange wire is the dashlights (fed by dimmer switch). The green wires are the speaker(s). At least that's how it goes on my '73.

Evaporust works great on the terminals.

Yeah, Needlenose work best, but you could also nudge the 'barb' bit over with the screwdriver enough to pull the connector out of the holder. Just be sure you're pushing at the spade from the correct (barb) side. The other side won't move.

My smallest screwdriver was still a bit too fat so I flattened the end of a piece of coathanger and tweaked it with a file.

I agree. As it turns out, last night was the first time I've had the Duster out after dark since installing Crackedback's headlight relays. After properly aiming the headlights they totally light up the road now. HUGE improvement. And the quality of the kit is about as good as it gets.

I used the non-adhesive for all my stock harnesses. Where I bundled several loose wires (for neatness mostly), or for mechanical protection I used the split loom.

RT Specialties