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sorry guys, I got it figured out 4 years ago lol. Finished restoration and sold Duster last summer.

Just to make sure that the leak on the carb you think you found is in FACT a leak on the carb. I would suggest if possible....installing the air cleaner, putting a "straw adapter" (the little red spout attachment normally) on your can of carburetor cleaner so that you can direct the flow more...

The way I have always adjusted carburetor a nd had good luck at it. Is setting the idle around 800rpm or so (don't want to set idle to high or it will not be running off idle circuit and the adjuster screws won't work correctly). Then I start on the right side and turn the screw in until it...

when I check my timing I pull the vac advance hose that goes to the dizzy off the carb port. I cap the port on the carb and stick a screw driver in the line going to the dizzy. then set the timing base. you want to make sure that when you hook your advance hose to the carb that you hook it to...

I had the same issue once years ago on a chevy pick up. bought the truck from a family member that needed an engine. I built an engine for it and installed it. ran awesome...didnt miss a beat but as soon as you dropped it in gear it coughed right out. I fiddled with it a bunch and finally just...

I messed with the duster some more today guys. I played around with the routing of it....adjustments,connection, checkec everything again (all hooked up and again all unhooked) and still was baffled at why it felt the way it did. I then took a bunch of pictures aswell as some video in...

That may have worked for trouble shooting the throttle but for the length and the bend needed to make the agle to the kick down lever I don't think it wod work and I don't want to ruin my cable trying it lol. I may however try some sort of bailing twine or something and see what I can't come...

yup, thats what im not getting....everything unhooked from carb and the carb linkage itself moves freely with ease. move just the gas pedal with nothing hooked to it and it flops around with no resistance. move the throttle pressure lever at trans with nothing hooked to it and it feels to have...

Thats what I always thought aswell from reading here on the forums. But my father swore up and down thats how he drove his duster around ( no shift kit or valve body work or anything) and said it never gave him troubles and he told me forget the kick down and unhook it and shift it manually and...

I dont believe it to be an issue with the valve body as I just had it apart to install the tf-2 kit not long back and everything looked great and I was very precise with following the instructions to a T and everything went together as it should. if anything I could believe what fishy68...

its because I took that picture after adding some slack to the adjustment trying to see if it made it easier to use the pedal. And i followed those instructions aswell. what I did was ...with my hand I floored the carburetor linkage all the way back and then zip tied it into place. Then...

Im not currently near the car to take a picture of it. but it is routed EXACTLY like it is in the link above. I have a ball stud on the kick down lever, from there the cable attaches and goes back to where the tail stock mounts to the trans where I have a cable bracket bolted that holds the...

Ive tried one spring aswell as no spring and its still stiff as crap to push the pedal.

Shouldnt have to do ankle exercises....it should simply just work right and I want to know why it does not. Yes the cable is looped back and comfortably routed above the trans and up the rear of the block....no chance of a kink anywhere in the system. I can unhook the kick down cable from...

No kinks . And like I said I've tried 2 different sets of cables and still same issue. And I can move the cable freely by hand.

Also, for what it counts. I have tried installing 2 different sets of throttle cables now....aswell as 2 different sets of kick down cables. same issue......so I dont believe its cable related.

Here is a picture of the current set up. ( dont mind the crud...havent got around to polishing and cleaning things up yet).

No thats all long gone, and I have to many clearance issues. it would be an even bigger headache lol. Id convert to manual valve body before going through all that.

Thanks for the info. I currently do not have the chrysler adapter ( I was under the impression it was only used when hooking a carburetor up to factor cable and bracket set ups.) and the lokar instructions for 904 show nothing about using the bracket and show it hooked up just as I have it...

And just to further clarify, my kick down is ran and adjusted just like it is instructed and show in the diagrams here http://www.lokar.com/downloads/pdf-instructions/chrysler-kickdown.pdf

Hey guys, I ran into this issue a couple months back but put it on the back burner until I was closer to having the car on the road. its a 72 duster,small block, 904 trans,transgo tf2 shift kit ( I did not use the parts to make it full manual ...just the shift kit). I have a stainless braided...

Hey sorry for not chiming in sooner but Fabo didnt notify me of there being any recent posts to the thread for some reason. Like I said before....I am aware that there is a far more ideal set up....but I cant swing the expense of something as steep as a trans swap/conversion (atleast not for...

Problem is, I've already dunked enough cash in the car over the years and there just isn't that kind of cash laying around for trams swaps. Not to mention the horror stories I've seen of installing newer over drive transmission, adapter plates,trams tunnel modifications,custom drive...

Oh and here is a picture of the duster to give you guys an idea of my wheel/tire combo and stance

likewise the previous owner of my duster had it set up for the 1/8th mile aswell. it had 275/60/15 bfg drag radials on it when I got it and I liked the stance of it and how it filled out the wheel well so well I actually just got all new bfg radial T/a's put on it....so new tires is out of...

I agree, from what little I have got to drive it.....the thing takes off like a rocket and pulls really hard. but it sounds like at higher speeds I am going to be running really high in the rpm's and I dont want to put my engine through constant high rpm's or for it to eat through gas like a...

Hey guys, I got a pumped up small block in my 72 duster, 904 auto trans, tci 2500 stall converter,b&m pro ratchet shifter,trans go tf2 shift kit, 28" tall rear tires, 8 3/4 rear with 742 center section and a clutch sure grip.4.56 gears Here is the thing, Ive been restoring the car over the...

If you have it all visible,count the teeth on the ring and the teeth on the pinion and divide the ring number by the pinion number. For example, mine is 41 tooth ring divided by 9 tooth pinion. Which makes for a 4.56 gear.

Bearings feel and look good, like I said there was no adjuster lock down tab on the axles and the adjuster was backed all the way out giving roughly a 1/4" of end play and I could visually see where the adjuster fingers were riding on the hub metal to metal.....which would give me the growling...

Thanks, I'll have to do some searching on a good lube to use. Anyone else have any info on decoding any of the numbers I posted?