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This is what I did initially..... but I want to change it back to a chromed bezel. This is painted.

These diagrams should help you. After it loads click on the diagram and it will increase in size. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BarracudaA.jpg http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BarracudaB.jpg BTW: I had to go into your personal profile to see what you own. I'm assuming it's...

Personally, I installed a pair of LED replacement bulbs for my stock 1157's. I replaced the front parking/turn signal bulbs w/ LED's too. I also wired in an electronic flasher relay (from a Maxima IIRC...) and they flash bright and fast. The electronic falsher just requires you add a single...

Did you try the Year One site?

My mistake, I knew one of them was exclusive to Year One. My bad.... But still, the prices are within a few dollars. I think it would make sense to deal with Year One and maybe catch a sale if the order is big enough. Thanks for the links and info Steve.

Add a power feed from the brake light switch back to the third light and ground the light where it mounts. Just a single wire from the hot side of the switch when the pedal is depressed. NOT the power-in side! This way you by-pass the directional switch, which is where the turn signal circuit...

Here's how the harnesses break down: There's the forward light harness, which is the headlights, parking lights, side marker lights, etc....This connects to the bulkhead connector and ties into the dash harness. Then there's the engine harness, which you can get already modified for electronic...

Go to www.MyMopar.com and search in the tools and references section and go to electrical. They show a `76 Valiant and Aspen, which can't be far off from your Duster, check the circut wiring, and trace. Take it wire-by-wire and it's not nearly the spaghetti nightmare people think it is.... But...

Evans supplies Year One, which is where I bought my entire harness for my car (back when I too was saying "money is not a problem....yet.") If you catch a sale code for Year One you can save as much as 25% on orders over $1,000, which is damn near what the entire harness will cost from bumper to...

I bought the entire harness for my car from Year-One and it literally dropped right in. I bought my engine harness up-graded to the late model alternator and electronic ignition already wired in. Pricey, yes. Piece of mind? Priceless.

I have to correct myself: Above I stated never use a toggle switch because the fuel pump will still run if you wreck. Toggle switch or relay, it will still pump as long as the ignition is on.The OIL pressure switch cut-out is what I was thinking about. Too little sleep the past few days....

While I was responding I see Joe stepped up with info too. I used 12 Gauge for ALL the fuel pump wiring. Remember, wire is like a garden hose: the bigger the gauge (diameter), the more it will flow. If the wire is too thin (18-20 Gauge) it's nothing more than a fuse.... waiting to light up...

In the schematic below substitute ignition crank/run power (from ignition switch...) to terminal #86 where it states black/blue wire from harness. I pulled this diagram off of the web for another specific application, but the wiring is the same. Make sure you use a quality 40 AMP relay. I cooked...

This should help......8) http://www.msdignition.com/instructions/6530_instructions.pdf?terms=6AL

I used a set of LED bulbs that had a ring of LED's around the perimeter on the side of the bulbs. This threw light in 2 directions.... making it rather decent to see. Plus I have an LED third brake light hanging in the rear window.... Word of advice: Make sure you wire in...

A-MEN Brother! Nuthin fits on these cars! I believe MSD has several different caps for the pro-billet unit. http://www.msdignition.com/info.aspx?taxid=8&taxid2=130 Call their tech-line if all else fails as suggested.

Here's some info on the Denso alternator conversion: http://www.arengineering.com/alternatorbracket/ND_bracket/denso.html And here's an alternate method.... :-D http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm

I also found this today.... Here's the actual latch for the remote release: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-Inside-Hood-Release-Latch-Plymouth-Dodge-B-body_W0QQitemZ170232157515QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item170232157515&_trksid=p3911.m14.l1318 And here's the release handle & cable...

These power latches bolt right in. There's a guy on e-Bay (DODGER69) that always has a set-up for sale: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/62-85-Orig-Mopar-Electric-Trunk-Release-L-K-ABCEF_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10076QQihZ010QQitemZ200234047163QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I ran the wire...

This might help anyone with an MSD related issue: http://www.msdignition.com/forum/ And here's the short version: http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/WireDiagrams/WDTN.PDF

Contact Rick@Laysons, one of our board members. Not only is he the ONLY person to contact when ordering parts from Laysons, but he does custom made battery cables on the side. He made me a set for my `68 Barracuda (I really should photograph them... they're beautiful) that are close to OEM, but...

This diagram might be easier to read: BTW: Those JC Whitney H-4's with the clear lenses are VERY annoying to on-coming traffic. The flat lense Hella's or Bosch units are fluted, which means the beam is concentrated to aim forward and away from on-coming traffic. Those JC jobs are like...

Leave the AM radio in the dash, buy an FM converter, and order Sirius. There's nothing on commercial radio worth listening to either..... Believe me, if you really like music it'll be the BEST $10 a month you'll spend.

I have a docking station in my Dart and one hooked up to my stereo at work. I also have a boom box for my garage. I can now take the satellight radio head unit and plug it into any one of the three. My Wife has her own for her VW. Installation of the antennea is the only difficult part, as it's...

The only way a relay cook would cook is if it was rated lower than the draw, which is one thing I forgot to mention. Make sure to get relays rated for the amperage your powering. A 30 Amp relay is overkill for Halogen headlights, but it's better to have a higher load ability. And use a heavier...

What your doing is running a shorter lenght of wire to the draw. What that means is if you decide to install H-4 Halogens, by using a relay your suppling power through a remote swich (the relay) and your NOT making all that current run in through the bulkhead connectors and through the actual...

The H-4's plug right in too, but it's recommended to wire in relays so you don't have a high amperage draw running inside the car and through the headlight switch. I wondered how much those Sylvania bulbs pull? But they throw some nice light, huh? They might be a viable alternative to cutting...

I used 12 gauge on the Dart and I haven't had any issues. I also wired it directly off of the battery. I'm also running a sensible wattage since where I live we have fairly well-lit highways. If I was in a rural area I'd probably go with air-craft landing lights and the 10 gauge wiring with...

If your planning on a Halogen headlight upgrade, you NEED to do this. I installed a set of Halogen H-4's I bought off of e-Bay and I doubled my lighting output with increased visibility. Go to a well stocked auto supply store and buy a pair of 30 amp relays and solder and shrink-wrap your...

May I interject with some advice? ANYTIME you have a wiring issue inside the car, remember where the power source is; it's OUTSIDE the car. When the wiring for our cars were designed "back in the day" it all worked. Over time, corrision forms and the by-product is resistence. This is what...