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BTW: Great tip on the E clip! I hate those factory clips....

Word of advice on those Lakewood scatter shields. Check the bearing retainer on your transmission where it fit's into the shield. There are 3 different sizes, the largest (that will not fit the scatter shield...) is for the overdrive unit. Then there is a small retainer, that requires a spacer...

IIRC: I bought my Z bar pivot mount from Brewers for the scatter shield. BTW: If you have plans on installing a set of TTI's you might want to consider a hydraulic set up.

I agree with Rarefish. Jamie at Passon is a great guy to work with.

That was me Rocket. Here's the link to the TTI installation thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=65442 As for the Lakewood scattershield, here's my experience. I bought mine used and got the can and the blow plate, which is what contains the clutch/flywheel assembly...

I'm using something similar, if not exactly, what your looking to do. Thanks go out to board member GTGRINLY for hooking me up with this shifter!

I broke in my CF cluch the proper way: Slip your left foot off the left pedal @ 3,000 RPM and hammer your right foot to the floor once things start happening..... :toothy10: http://media.putfile.com/CudaSmokeShow ** MAYBE ** Tomorrow I get new burn-out footage.

I'd just swap the tail shaft housing. MUCH easier than trying to repair it. Just find the right one as the A-833 had several different tail shafts with different shifter mounting locations if I remember correctly.

AS a side note: Sometimes the synchros bind and if you hit 4th. THEN reverse it drops right in. Just .02 I've learned with sticks.... If your bench shifting it's gonna be rough.

WOW!!!!!!! Like they used to say out in Lancaster County when I lived there "Sum ***** done did blowed up REAL good!" Sorry to see the carnage..... hopefully you'll be back in the saddle soon.

I believe they came from the factory rusty.... :mrgreen: When I was putting mine together I painted it with a hammer-toned paint just so it looked somewhat finished.

Glad to hear this Gary. In the attached picture it didn't look like the rods were adjustable. My mistake....

In the above picture look at the metal plate just under the shifter boot, the plate with the 2 visible bolt heads.... look at the bottom edge. See that little tab in the center on the bottom? There's corrosponding holes in all three shifter levers. Slide an allen wrench in there and adjust the...

This thread popped up elsewhere recently and I have pictures of a small block Mopar scattershield and blow plate. On the left is the "Can" which is your bellhousing and containment for any metal that might seperate and possibly come through the floorboard and injure either the driver, or a...

Give Jamie a call at Passon Performance. I had a similar problem and had torched and bent my Z bar to fit. For $80 I bought the correct Z bar and everything works fine now. http://passonperformance.com/ You can also try Brewers. I've used both in the past...

The over-center spring may be missing from the pedal assembly..... or the pedal to Z bar rod may be reversed? If you eventually need pieces, try these guys. I've had great experiences with both of them. http://www.brewersperformance.com/default.htm...

Double check the lenght of your clutch fork. There's one for A bodies, and another for B&E. Same with the Z bar. Mine was very close to the starter so I massaged it with a torch and a vise. It worked, but I just went ahead and bought a new Z bar from Brewers...

I drop all the pins for the shift rods at the shifter. I insert a small allen wrench into the hole in the center of the shift rod levers, including reverse. Once ALL the levers are connected together I spin the adjuster's until they line up with each hole in their respective lever.You'll have to...

Call Jamie @ Passon.... I just bought a new Z bar about 3 months ago and it fit perfect! Unforntunately I don't have any measurements handy. The Z bar cost me about $80-odd dollars...

First of all, welcome aboard! After the mention in Mopar Muscle we have many new friends. Enjoy! :thumrigh: As for the Z bar issue, I'll ask the obvious: Are you sure they're for an A body? With the exception of free play in the clutch fork and the overcenter spring in the pedals ( which may...

That's the Lakewood number for the required spacer sleeve for the front bearing retainer on a 4 spd. Mopar box. You need this when installing a small bearing retainer ( 4.35" ) transmission into a Lakewood scattershield, which has a 4.80" opening. The larger overdrive retainer ( 5.25" ) will...

Mine was cobbled together from bits-n-pieces that I picked up here and there. With the exception of my Z bar that was "massaged" with a hot wrench, everything operated fine. No binding, high pedal, full release, and no grinding. Geometry was parallel & square. I just have no idea what pieces...

In a previous post I mentioned a problem with my Z bar attaching pivot on my Lakewood scattersheild and Brett mentioned an adapter. Does it look anything like the one in the bottom of this picture? If anyone can help I'd appreciate it. I'm in a bind.... :eye:

Sorry guys, but I'm gonna shove this back up to the top. I spent all summer building an engine and now I can't drive the damn thing! :x PLEASE! Ask around or take a second look out in the garage! Thanks and sorry about being a pain in the ***.....

I'm using a Lakewood too. The piece I need is the bracket for the Z bar pivot. I could also use either the mid-sized bearing retainer, or the sleeve that comes with the scattersheild..... :cry: The fork & pivot are fine.

BTW: If I didn't make it clear in the first post, the bearing retainer I need mounts on the front of the transmission case and centers it in the bellhousing opening. The one I need is just under 5" in diameter. Please look guys. I need this piece. Thanx..... :salut:

I installed my scattersheild today. Wow.... I thought header bolts were a *****. Installing the perimeter 3/4" bolts around the sheild was a job! But never mind that, I need some help locating some odds-n-ends. First off, I need a correct Z bar pivot bracket for the scattersheild end of...

Thanks Brett. It's just that my damn car is soooooo stuck in my head..... :puker: Maybe tomorrow I'll finally have her running. Spare time is hard to come by these days. :cry:

Here's a start.... and it looks pretty decent too! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2487112990&category=34206

I'll take a stab at this since I swapped over to a 4spd. behind a 360 / 8.75.... First things first, get the correct flywheel for an EXTERNALLY balanced 360. They go for about $200-275 new. Use a stock 318-340 flywheel and you'll have an absolute horrible vibration, starting at 2,400 until...