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I've had headers on my 69 340 dart since I bought it in 1981, never had an issue with changing the oil. Oil drips on headers when pulling the filter off big deal, thats what brake clean is for. Filter is tight and hard to get off, quit putting in on so tight and oil the seal before putting it...

I thought it was standard practice to run a small ball hone thru the lifter bores before the final block cleaning, at least thats they way I have done it

There wasn't room for a mechanical fan on mine either. I run a puller set up and a pusher set up on a toggle switch in case it gets real hot or as a backup

that's a good price it they have them to sell. Mine didn't come with hold down either. Back when I bought mine the rockers and shafts didn't come with spacer package either , had to order them separately. Then they got smart and started selling them all as a kit

I put a thin coating of "the right stuff" over all of those seals. And only tighten the hollow bolt until it starts squishing out, and after it sets up I tighten it a little more

Summit will give you free cam recommendations for your engine just provide it's details. Or spend a little more and get a Comp cam, their advice is free also

I like the big yellow accel coils, 25 + years and still going strong

If the plugs look good I would look into the carb. Acts lean to me at idle. How did you set the mixture screws? With a vacuum gauge? Idle circuit could also have dirt in it or other problems

340's like a lot of initial timing and they also like a working choke ,preferably a manual one

Are you using real header bolts or just a regular bolt. I just use Teflon paste I bought at Lowes never any leak

Looks like some severe detonation to me

number eight does looks odd, kinda like a head gasket issue where it is sucking coolant in the combustion chamber

Not much progress in the last 3 years

Thanks I enjoyed the read

It's on facebook market place for $50

Saw this for sale what strange plenum.

Lets see the page from the owners manual, I've never heard of that before on a car that old.

I have this same distributor in my 340 and it is the best I have used. The price is high as they are discontinued but man do they work. They make an advance limiting plate for them so you can dial it in exactly where you want it. Bought mine new 25 or years ago for a 440 in the box at a swap...

Builder , heck with that. The feeling of doing it yourself is tremendous , Did my first engine in 1982 with just a motors manual and over a hundred since then.

My first thought would be that part of the piston broke off

I have a spare 1971 340 block that needs one sleeve, I keep it for a spare. I cleaned and painted it with rustoleum years ago and used it for an end table in my basement. Still got it, in case I ruin the 1969 block in my car

That's not fixed it's just had a band-aid put on it and I consider it broken, and that stuff could let loose at anytime , and maybe in pieces which would bang around in the engine and do who knows what damage.

I'd have to see what is under all that glue

:wtf:

The secret to reusing lifters is to take an ox/acl torch and get the bottom red hot to reharden the metal on them, then you will be fine:poke:

The original poster said the lifters he used were Johnson,

Stuck engine is different than an engine that was never started and the assembly lube has dried out in and became like glue. It needs to come apart be cleaned and relubed

Could just mill the heads and use regular gaskets

If you buy cheap ones they are. I put pro magnum comp cams lifters in my last build, a little more expensive but they use new technology and work well

I'd personally pass on the solid lifter cam. Go hydraulic or hyd roller