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I'd replace the master cylinder myself

I am running a stock dist. block on my converted 69 dart. I use a 1980 or so dodge mastercylinder and a adjustable proportioning valve on the line to the back brakes. It has stock 74 disc brake set up off an a body and 11in rear drums and it stops very well

Check the line from the engine to the booster for leaks. Brake clean spray works well for this. Or you could have a bad booster

I dose not :blob:

Drive it awhile or have the used drum turned

Have you adjusted the rear brakes?

the labor isn't and not all parts are easy and cheap to find , and on old cars some stuff just breaks when taking it apart And finding a mechanic who is knowledgeable on older technology is harder to finder than ever. That's why I started turning wrenches 35 years ago and do all my own work...

Old cars are expensive , learn how to work on them or be prepared to pay out the butt for repairs

The master cylinder would have had to be leaking if there was fluid in the booster. I used a volare/aspen 1976-80 master cylinder on mine with the plastic fluid tank. You will need an adapter to run one ,4 bolt to 2 bolt, jegs or summit has them in stock

Can you post a picture?

I'd move up to Dot 5 myself , have used it in numerous cars over the last 20+ years with no problems at all

There is always the option of getting a 10 or 11in set up from a b body and bolting it onto you housing . I used an 11in setup on mine off a 70 b-body

If they really want to argue the point the rear end housing could have been damaged from the fall to the pavement and rear end will have to be replaced drum to drum

Drum looks to have the outside shroud on it and is actually a 10in drum. I had one on my 69 dart when I bought it And he says in the first post its a 10in drum

looks like a redrilled small bolt pattern drum to me

When you spin them and they stop can you move it the rest of the way around by hand? If so I would just go ahead and drive it

I used one I had for an 1980 volare ,seems to still work great 10 years later

I mounted my 74 set up on my 69 dart on the back to make room because of the sway bar

Buy a new one as the cable stretches over time and the spring get weak

I'd try lightly sanding the shoes by hand , and make sure there is some type of grease between the backing plate and the shoe contact points

Buy a mastercylinder adapter and run a newer one with the plastic resivoir. Bought the master cylinder at a local parts house and the adapter at summit or jegs

Is there a lip worn inside the drum? If so it needs to be turned down or replaced

I just used rustoleum on mine , but I have dot5 in my brake system

I'm still using the stock 4 wheel drum valve on my car , it now has front discs and large 11in rear drums. I did put an adjustable proporting valve in the line to the back brakes to limit their pressure. Stops great like a lot newer car

I think your master cylinders fine , I bleed mine with the return line method that most places include in the master cylinder boxes not the brass plug type. Both on the bench and installed on the car If they could be damaged bench bleeding by the return line method I'm sure all the...

Disc and drum take different ones , I just bought an adjustable proportioning valve and installed it in the steel line going to the rear brakes. I put mine where it was easy to get to and wouldn't get damaged if the car bottomed out. Jegs and summit both carry them

I've never had a master cylinder get damaged from a bench bleed , again in 30+ years of doing brakes

Have always pushed it to the floor , never had an issue in 30+ years of doing all sorts of brakes

I prefer to use the two man system myself. Have one person in the car pumping the brakes , and I like them to pump it several times not just once before holding pressure on the pedal . Then the other person releases the bleeder valve and gets a good strong shot out of it.

the hissing would be air still coming out of the lines, some brake systems just have to have the **** bleed out of them. Especially with a whole new system