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what part store are you going to?

i would check off line if the part numbers are the same. If not i wouldn't try it. Why not call ahead and see if they have them in stock?

yes. but you should use a manual master cylinder, and it will be plenty firm

Huh? :sign6:

You cannot just unhook the booster and have 'manual' brakes. You need to get a manual front disc brake master cylinder.

With my setup i could take out my momentary swtich and put a toggle to lockout the rears completely and drive. Line lock manufactures recommend you dont leave the valve energized for more than a minute however.

Note it says 'clutch'. I have no third pedal on my car, so i mounted mine in the rear. It'd be kinda hard unless you have three feet to launch a manual with a rear mounted line lock, clutch and gas pedal. :D Mine works.. :D

Here is what you need if you want to lock the rears out and be able to modulate the brake pedal. My setup

Of my rear setup? I'll try to remember this evening to take pictures. Its nothing fancy!Or another setup? I used to have it lock the fronts, and moved it.

User preference. I like to have my foot control the movment of the car rather than the fronts being dead locked.

I paid about $50 for my whole setup, give or take a couple. I got a summit (made by hurst) line lock. Used my factory horn button with a toggle to work it. Relay, wires. And a $3 brake line from napa. Mine is mounted just before the rear rubber brake line leaves the body.

Looks like a nice clean install, but as far as the teflon tape goes, there shouldn't be any brake fluid near there due to the fact it should be sealed at the flare. Except for something like a brake bleeder or the like i assume. Looks nice!

you also want the firewall support bracket that helped firm up the area around the master given the extra force on it with the manual setup

I agree with the above you prolly bent somethin. Only other issue could be like a restricted brake line or something thats not allowing the fluid to return. But that wouldnt quite make the cracking sound you heard.

Audi/VW use braided lines in their system. As long as THEY ARE D.O.T approved, I would probably run them. I believe russell makes some that are as well. You will likely need some AN to flare fittings to make it all work.

Hmm i have some slider caliper adapters off a Cordoba for the 11 3/4s sittin around here :D

i agree with the lines kinking up or something.

Here are the methods for testing a brake booster for holding vacuum. 1) Engine off, depress the pedal until it is hard (no power assist). Hold that hard pedal down, start the engine. Pedal should continue further down with engine vacuum. 2)Turn the engine off. Power assist should remain at...

we concluded on another board they should be held with one finger, pulled back with the other, released aimed across the garage and note the distance. :D Not needed. :D

I put stainless steel 'in-line' hardlines in my cuda. Pretty happy with them, no issues. For rubbers I went with Raybestos.

I bought a MC w/Adapter from Rick off moparts, and retainers from MagnumHP. Seems good, machined for the retainer. I went from factory power brakes, to a manual setup with this m/c. Just used a factory ebody push rod for a manual car. Just make sure, if you have manual brakes, bigger the bore...

went from power to a manual alum m/c here as well. so far so good!

Mine is increased (bore size)..more pedal effort. I felt the need because i did a power brake to manual brake swap and thats what i wanted, i paid like $60 for the setup. Its nothing overwhelming, just firmer lol. -Mike

i paid like $70 for my conversion including the m/c and plate off a guy in the classifieds on moparts. Its a big piston m/c so it takes a little bit of leg to get things goin. Just like getting a heavier clutch imo, little heavy to begin with and you just get used to it :D

The line ON the master cylinder that is most twords the FRONT of the car is for the REAR brakes. The line most twords the DRIVERS SEAT is for the FRONT brakes. Just CAPS to clarify :D

mine is just in the top (from the mc) and out the bottom (to prop valve). So between the m/c and prop valve. Don't forget you should wire a relay to the line lock. Loops are there to aid in taking vibrations and such.

i would say its leaking since it is directly related to you pressing the brakes. You can try to run it, turn off the engine and listen closely for any leaks. If you are lucky it might just be the check valve, if not, its the booster gone south. Which is why im converting to manual brakes on...

edit:nevermind O:)

i've never used the torque spec. I've always backed off the pads so there no resistance on the rotor. and tightened it just barely so there was no front/back play in the rotor. never a problem..just my 2cents.

which ever way your rubber brake lines dont bind/kink/rub :D