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I'd clean everything and if it's good reuse it. Some of you guys are so anal you'd crap your pants if you knew what I've used over before. lol

Yes, new valve springs for sure. If those are from a 77 they are old and tired, I would do that first. You need to know where the timing is not just where it ran good, buy a timing light and and a damper tape so you know for sure. I would have already done the 3/8 fuel line and electric pump...

The rockers will work, the heads won't, valves too small. The crank may be fine but you need to check the back of it for the register size, number of bolts and the distance from the block to the face of the flange. Also if you plan on using it in front of a manual trans check to see if it's...

If you have or can borrow a degree wheel and a dial indicator you can measure the cam for yourself to see what it really is. Or, you could pull it out and look on the back of the cam for some numbers. Browse some cam company web sites and search for those numbers. If there are no numbers than...

Still seems small to me, those lift figures aren't much bigger than the lobe lift on my cam lol. Personally I would have went with something like 248-250 duration at .050 and .530-.550 lift. Now that would thump.

It's pretty easy to get 500 HP out of a hydraulic cammed 440. The most gain for you and still keep it streetable would be to port the heads, bigger valves and a touch more cam.

Even if you have to notch the bores a day with a dye grinder would take care of that. They don't need much of a notch.

I could have gotten almost 15:1 on my new short block with a flat top .007 out of the hole but chose instead to keep the compression moderate at 12.3:1. It should be a bit easier on the bottom end, especially the wrist pins at idle speed and on the head gaskets that way.

Well with a 4.03 bore, 4.0 stroke, 55cc chamber, .040 gasket and a 0 deck with about 6cc of valve relief you'll only get 13.0. You could stick that piston out of the block .010 or .011 and you'll get about 13.4. Those RHS head chambers are about 62cc if I recall and they aren't aluminum...

No not really but it's just harder and more expensive to do. No off the shelf pistons unless you have a really small chamber head.

No doubt it will make more power at higher compression ratios but it's not a necessity.

Check out this site. http://www.e85carbs.com/?gclid=CJPy_9_e5qECFQlinAodH3ElLA

I don't think you need to go that high on the compression. E85 is about a 106 octane rating so 12-1 is good. None of the factory E85 flex fuel vehicles run that high and they run fine. I do know that Mopar uses a special oil, fuel hose, fittings and bearings for the flex fuel vehicles because of...

I'd go for it if the price was right. Some of the Indy big cube heads might flow more but the Stage 6's are very capable.

The Stage 6 head is a good head, has lot's of potential but it needs to be worked just like any as cast aluminum head.

Drilling the throttle plates is to get more air in the engine at idle whithout opening the throttle blades too far and uncovering the idle slots when very large camshafts are used. Once you open the blades so far and uncover the transfer slots you aren't running on the idle circuit anymore, you...

Hmm, last I checked copper was a metal.

The large port Commandos are very close to a W5 head without the raised intake port. RHS, Edelbrocks and such are not going to come close to the potential of this head. Back to the OP's original question, you should check the big MP dealers, Jegs, Summit and such. Or maybe you can talk a...

If the balancer is just round with no offset weights on it and the converter and/or flex plate have no weights on them then it's possible it was internally balanced but I doubt it. By the way that rod bearing is curled and no longer fits the cap indicates it's been pretty hot. I would either...

Is this just a stock motor or what? What compression ratio? Is it a fresh rebuild with low miles? Headers? Exhaust system? There are so many variables here you haven't even touched on. One thing you need to remember is if you have 440 cubic inches pumping on top of the piston you also have...

When the engine is cold the bearing clearances are tighter and the oil is thicker. This raises the pressure, you'd think that as the oil gets hotter it gets thinner and would flow better than it would when it's cold through a restricted passage. I think you are losing oil pressure somewhere, it...

If that's true it is new, I know locking trans dipsticks are new this year so I'll have to do some research.

Good deal, glad you found the problem.

You might want to check the right side plug too.

You'll have to remove the cam gear and the retainer plate, the cam can stay there. The soft plug may be missing from the right side galley as well allowing oil to wash down the front of the motor and lose pressure to the #1 main. Then not having enough to pump up to the left side lifter galley.

Yes the plastic line is not legal. Rules state it must be metallic or braided steel.

No, the head oils through the pushrod not the head. The left lifter galley is fed from the #1 main bearing. A couple things come to mind, you can check them in any order you see fit. First is maybe a spun #1 main bearing, but that would soon wipe out #1 rod bearing as well. Next would be the...

This is what I used, 2 -8 lines from the cell to 2 Holley blue pumps with Moroso 18 psi bypass springs, 3/8 aluminum lines out of the pumps to 2 Fram HP-40 fuel filters, 3/8 out to 2 Holley regulators and -6 to each bowl of the carb. I know this sounds like overkill but I think this thing might...

After having used aluminum heads I'll never go back to cast iron.

I win! lol