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Instructions I found on the web say not to use the 5.0 lever with this valve body.

Oh the joys of laying on your back under the car with transmission fluid dripping on your face. At least it's done now, CRT reverse manual valve body, billet low/reverse servo and home made blocker rod in the accumulator. This better be worth at least a tenth or two, assuming it doesn't blow up...

I have something similar using a low first gear Aussie 4 speed (1st: 3.32:1; 2nd: 2.00:1; 3rd: 1.43:1; 4th: 1.00:1), 318 engine in a light weight car (3 series BMW), mostly used to road course track days, going from 3.45 in the rear to 3.15 made a huge difference in overall driveability, mostly...

One of the problems I have at the moment is that if I'm not careful I can overshoot 2nd and go straight from 1st to 3rd, reverse pattern should solve that with the factory shifter as it has a detent to go from 2nd to 1st, which will become the 2nd to 3rd shift.

I have a CRT reverse pattern valve body laying around and a low horsepower car with a relatively stock 727, was rebuilt with performance frictions and a bolt in sprag, but that's about it. Just wondering what sort of 1/4 mile improvement I might see with a valve body change? Currently running...

Found this was a good comparison of typical mods: http://www.sonnax.com/articles/65-myth-busters-i-performance-converter-modification

The convertor is for an AMC application. If we cant get specific details of the mods required we will just leave it alone. Just looking for a mild stall increase for a relatively stock motor at this stage. It is a bit of a stop gap as I would like to make some mods to the motor down the track...

Does anybody have details of exactly what is done with the standard torqueflite convertor to increase stall speed? Turns out one of the machinists at work has some convertor experience so we have opened up the convertor from my 727 that got water in it to clean it out. We can probably make...