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That's why I have long advocated for the 360. It got a bad reputation due to being released at the beginning of the smog era and not having a performance option until 1974. I remember conversations in the early 1980s with people degrading the 360 as worthless. I knew they were mistaken...

I have owned a factory 340 car since 1983 and it will remain a 340, as it should. BUT, I have long advocated (since before I owned a Mopar 340 car - I did own a non-Mopar 340 car once upon a time) for building a 360 for a street performance car simply due to the cost difference and ready...

Don't believe it...

Yes, the 273 was in a '66 Barracuda. It wasn't fast, but by comparison to other sub-300 cubic inch performance engines it more than held its own. The handling package and disc brakes also helped the fun factor. 340 is in a '68 GTS convertible, 440 is in my son's '67 Dart GT convertible. In some...

Too many variables. I enjoyed my stockish Commando 273 (what's that? 280 ft lbs?) with the four speed and 3.23 gears. The stock 340 is near perfect, but the stock 440 IS perfect.

I think I still have a 1999 5.9 computer. Ran last time I tried it (2012 or so).

Like I explained earlier, I'd highly suspect the distributor. That's at least a place to start. Check dwell or just replace with a known good one.

Ok, distributore is stock, but electronic or points?

It's been asked, but not answered. What distributor are you running? I had a buddy with a stone stock '60 340 four speed Barracuda. It was pinging and he thought is was distributor (stock dual point). I had a fresh one on the shelf so we swapped them and the pinging went away. The only obvious...

I've never built a spool mount small block car, but within the manufacturing tolerances they should be the same. One thing that makes a difference is the early vs. late steering linkage. I have more oil pan clearance using late linkage on my Barracuda than my son has on his Dart.

The mounts really only fit one way. It's not like the biscuit mounts that can set high on one side if you aren't careful. Time to start measuring things.

Find another machine shop...

Jim, one thing not mentioned is the heads. They likely have smog pump holes below the exhaust ports. Tap them and thread some bolts in and cut them off (or use some allen-head set screws). Use some sort of loc-tite to keep them permanently in place.

The value on those has been all over the place in the last thirty years. There's more value to the whole package (with carb, air cleaner, and rocker covers), but I've seen the intakes sell for $100 and go begging for $25.

The old myth of the big block feeling nose heavy was due more to the tires and shocks of the day. My son's 440/4sp Dart convertible (factory big block torsion bars and sway bar) actually feels firmer and more stable on the road than my 68 340 GTS convertible (not much done to improve it). We've...

I have nothing against Schumacher, but I will always swap k-members first. In my case it's with a home-built Direct Connection unit, but I'd still do the same for a /6 to small block swap (well, no I wouldn't because I'd go all the way to a big block).

They came on "B" motors in Dodges and Plymouths (well, at least Plymouths). They came on 413s in Chrysler 300 letter cars only. Since it is a split intake the same manifold is used with both "B" and "RB" motors with a different length balance tube between them.

The shorts were the optional manifold in 62 (standard in-line dual fours), standard in 63, and optional again in 64 (standard single four barrel) on the 300 Letter cars.

They won't fit an a-body without surgery. They're called long rams and there were two versions. They are physically the same size, but are called long and short due to the length of the runner divider. The longs are made for peak torque at a lower rpm than the shorts. The shorts made...

Like I said before I would run it for a while and see what happens. You'll have plenty of warning and it should not leak really bad anyway, if it does at all.

The aluminum part is the timing cover. That is the least critical bolt, but it will probably leak there at some time int he future. If the bolt is broken at the timing cover surface it will probably be hard to remove, but if you have enough shank in the hole in the water pump you shouldn't have...

One more question, and the one you really need to answer first. How fast do you want the car and how streetable?

I like big blocks because it is generally cheaper to make the same power, but when you start throwing a 340 into the mix against a 383 the lines blur real fast. It will certainly be cheaper to keep the 340.

The car should already have disc brakes, but does it have a sway bar? If not, for a street car it really is nearly mandatory. I would also add larger torsion bars and stiffer rear springs. You will also likely need to upgrade the rear, although an 8-1/4 will withstand some power. You just may...

Go look at the article on converting your k-member. The mounts show up on e-bay from time to time. It's also possible that the 440 you have already has them (if it came out of a 74-78 passenger car).

Which k-member do you have now. There were only two available in 1973, /6 and small block. If you have a small block k-member go to www.bigblockdart.com and find the tech pages and read the article on building your own DC (Direct Connection) K-member. Then all you'll need are 74-78 big block...

Maybe you wouldn't try to sell him on it, but I would. It's a matter of a difference of opinion. I've owned, maintained, and driven both over the last 28 years. The only a-body I have that is remaining a small block is my 68 GTS convertible. I have also used both for daily transportation.

My son's car only looks more like a racer because it spent most of its life that way. It's got a mild 383/4sp/3.55SG. He used it to go back and forth from Fresno to San Luis Obispo many times. And, I will say it again. It is NOT HARD TO MAKE ONE HANDLE. It is not any harder than making a...

This car is pretty well balanced and the only aluminum is the intake and radiator. Still has cast iron wxhaust manifolds.

After everything else required to upgrade the car for more performance (rear end, suspension, etc.) it costs very little to go big block. Schumacher big block mounts require modifications to the V8 k-member that are not reversable. I'm not sure about the /6 to V8 mounts (small or big). It's not...