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One of the thing I remember is some of my suspension parts were seized on pretty good. A good spray with a penetrating oil with a couple applications would probably be advised and I found a half inch drive electric impact to be my friend.

HEL 5906

I've been through that, never really got the results I was looking for my advice is just moved to a hellwig oversized sway bar and kit and be done with it you'll be glad you did. My two cents

I will say that a four-speed and big cam all contribute to parking lot difficulties. I do have a tendency to just horse the steering wheel to go where I want it to that means in a very tight situation I just crank it dead stop it doesn't matter, with a little more finesse and an automatic I feel...

It's kind of funny I took the 340 swinger out with the factory manual steering and bus steering wheel yesterday and was maneuvering in a parking lot. I thought to myself I sure am glad I don't have a more aggressive steering box because I was cranking on it pretty good. My car is not set up for...

No comparison! I was riding wheelies in the 70s on bikes and could still probably jump on a dirt bike and get a couple gears with the front end up, nothing real impressive about the power level it takes to do that, commonplace.

I would just like a couple nice pics of my 340 swinger with the front wheel snatched about a foot off the ground I don't need to be dragging the back bumper .

Okay your hypothesis is boring the problem with calculations is one or two wrong numbers and it all goes to s*** so thanks for telling me how I could better ask a question LOL but if you don't tell me how to ask my questions I won't tell you how to answer them.

Good info thank you, I would imagine subframe connectors would be a must?

That's kind of a tough question because I'm in transition. I want to go through my 340 this winter so I have options. The builds will be between 450 and 500 horsepower with about the same torque. Gear ratios 391 tire size is 26 in 275 50 15 drag radials, 4 speed car , clutch rated for 450...

I certainly understand the basics. I know it's a really general question but would like helpful input.

Let me clarify, what's the secret to pull the front wheels you know doing wheelie. How much horsepower would it take and what other supporting staff would help accomplish it in the 1970 swinger. It's one of my bucket list.

No you're absolutely right I think my bar comes in just a little under a inch I didn't realize that was a 1 .1/8 bar.thanks for bringing that to my attention.

I looked at that bar but I believe it to be the same diameter as my factory bar and didn't know if it would really give me much improvement over my current setup. But I welcome your thoughts on that.

Okay I went back and read specifications and you're absolutely right for use with their k member. Thanks! I'm working on a 1970 340 swinger with original sway bar. I run 7 in front rims and 225 50 front tires, I would like to stiffen it up.

So I'm trying to tighten up the suspension on the front of my 340 swinger. I want to upgrade the sway bar and I'm looking for the best direct replacement. I've kind of settled on the QA1 any other thoughts?

It seems it would be a little dependent on how much tire and horsepower you were putting to the ground. On a moderate output 400 horsepower setup I'm sure you would probably see no ill effects of running the same spring on both sides especially for a car that sees 95% of its time on the street...

I am no suspension specialist but I can't see ladder bars helping with the super stock spring setup.

Congratulations, it feels so good when you finally correct a nagging problem.

Overall I've been happy with them for what they are. as mentioned there are much better shocks out there I found them to have a little bit too much lift. A shock should dampen and not add up force.

As mentioned the 323 was a very popular gear ratio and for good reason not too tall but still pretty long legged. My 340 swinger came with 323s and a four-speed and even with what seemed to be a pretty tall gear it was able to beat a lot of cars with lower gear ratios.

Wow it's a lot closer than I thought looks like about half an inch lol

I figured someone was going to ask thatI don't remember I bought the wheels a couple years ago they're small bolt pattern 8-in cragar 15-in I believe they only come in two back spacings and I believe I went with the largest but I'm shooting from the hip here

Rolled fender lip on my 70 340 swinger is really the only modification I've done like others say it's car dependent. I run 26" 275 Nitto 50s 15s I have a 2-in overarch spring the body sits more down around the tires than the tires in the well. It's a little humped up for some people's liking...

If I want to burn out I have to just go for it dump the clutch and don't give the tires a chance if I piddle fart around it will hook so hard that they will slip my ram competition clutch pretty easily! But they are badass

I run 275 50 15s Nitto drag radials and sometimes they dead hook at 4000,it took about a month or two to break a ujoint that let go at about 75 , trashed the drive shaft crack the bell housing bent the front yoke, broke the shifter bracket it sounded like the crank fell out of it. My point be...

how were your overall results after using the larger sway bar

over Arch to accommodate 275 Nitto drag radials on 8 inch Cragar SS rims

I will also endorse General spring of Kansas City six on six XHD Leaf pack with a 3in over Arch American Steel very nice

with my new leaf spring pack my tires are approximately three-quarters of an inch from my fenders my tires have never rubbed the spring pack is just too rigid. But when I adjust my pinion snubber all the way up and I hit bumps it jars me pretty good