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It's only some stores, they can also put it in a rattle can.

'69-'72 Valiant and '70-'72 Duster.

Depends, if you're also using the tail light pocket then no. They're different sized openings depending on the year.

Mine had a giant washer put in behind the striker (not ideal). If I was going to weld anything in there it'd be one of these Dynamic Renovation - 67-76 A-body Passenger Side Door Jamb Repair Plate

Probably the reverse of what I did. Doors, weather strip channel, a pillar trim (can be made to work though), rear plastic trim to match the upper of the doors, trim on the quarter glass was different. If you're game for hacking stuff up can probably use all the later guts in the early door shells.

'69 Valiant grille is all one piece. '70-72 Valiant/Duster/Scamp shares the same upper and lower trim no matter the grille style.

Done the inners with rattle cans from O'reilly's, the match will only be as good as the person mixing the paint.

This shows a green stripe but I don't recall ever seeing one, I wonder if it's a bright green like the E bodies got though. I'm sure you could get one made in a similar shade of green though.

M31 belt molding. You could get it on Dusters, Demons, Darts and Scamps. It isn't reproduced as far as I know and the corner pieces for the rear sucks to find in decent shape. I can take photos after bit if needed, I added it to mine.

Right off of PPG's site " MP170 Epoxy Primer. Primary use: bare metal adhesion and corrosion protection." "Can be applied over: Properly cleaned, sanded, bare or primed steel, galvanized and aluminum." So yes, it can be applied to bare metal.

I had to swap the channel that holds the seal when I done it, also A pillar trim needs trimmed too from memory.

Both of these have 35% on them and have been tinted for years.

You can reuse your bezels, upper/lower trim and hardware.

There was no mention of them in the '70 sales book, just left and right manual and a left remote. '71 book states they come as a pair "Racing, outside left remote, right side manual, color keyed or chrome"

The one on the back of the window? I have a set of '70 doors that have the trim as well as my '69 does too.

Doors, weather strip channel, a pillar trim, rear upper door panel, the trim on the quarter glass was a tad different too iirc.

I'd just pay the extra for AMD, I went with the cheaper sherman or goodmark option (been too long) and they're stupid thin. I could pop them in and out by hand if I got bored enough.

Appears so according to DMT's site, probably just helps to keep water out so you don't blow bulbs. Someone smarter can answer about them being glued on though.

Sadly that's the only place I recall still having any listed. May just have a bunch of filler up top from trying to blend those quarters on, could possibly be able to use AMD ones. Inspection camera or similar would be handy to check out the back side of the quarter.

VFN makes some, towards the bottom 64-76 Dart

Of those two, B5 but B7 will always be better.

I like it but I'm biased, old man bought an FJ6 '71 Duster new and still has it.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1968-dodge-dart-3/

Panel bond it and send it. Worst case it gets expensive, best case it stays on.

DC part, usually $350-$600 sadly

The guy that used to make the good repops recently passed away so you’ll probably not find many good copies. The one in Canada I believe is a little small (used the inside for a mold).

They'll work, I just stole the factory marker hole and welded it in.

Dura-block has a nice set of blocks as well as some 20+ inch ones for say quarters and doors. DIY Auto School on youtube has some good videos as well as other places. Just use a cheap black spray paint for a guide coat or SEM makes a guide coat. Key is to take your time with it.

Probably better to learn yourself, it's not too bad to learn to do. Most expensive thing you'd need is a welder and good air compressor. I'd hate to know what mine would have been at a shop.

Yup it's not in the bumpers it's in their mounting brackets. To remove the front plate you have to separate it from the bracket and remove two bolts and the heavy plate is gone.