Search results for query: *

63-72 idler and pitman studs point towards the hood. (Nuts on top) 73-76 studs point towards the ground. (Nuts on bottom) Idler and pitman arms must be mated to the same era center link. All 67-72 or all 73-76. The tierod assemblies are all the same. I have a 73 style K and discs in my 68 but...

I recently bought alloys for my 68. All 4 wheels are LBP with 1/2"-20 studs.Test fitting the bare wheel on the rear I found the thread engagement of the nuts to only be 7 threads which calculates to 0.35. Approx 11/32") at 20 threads/inch. They are stock Chrysler studs measuring 1.72 overall...

You might check with Mid-Ohio near Mansfield, OH. I haven't heard much lately from Nelsons Ledges in Ohio. One of my old car buddies took their Mini Cooper there and had a blast. Used up a set of tires and brakes in one day so you might consider that if you're going cross country.

The procedure 72bluNblu outlined in post #60 is exactly the way I did mine. (Except I used a length of 1/2" threaded rod) I like the idea of just rotating the UCA around so that you don't have to separate the upper ball joint. That could save a lot of time if you've never done it. There's most...

Could be old stock, but they're packed in sealed bags with moisture absorber and look perfect. With the plethora of tubular upper control arms now, demand has surely gone down and maybe warehouses got stuck holding excess stock. I'll take 20 year old USA parts over anything rubber Made in...

Ok. The included instruction sheet says Printed in USA 1985. So the box was made in USA, the instruction sheet was printed in USA but the parts were made elsewhere? I also bought K791 LCA bushings and that box says Made in Mexico.

I've had these on my 68 cuda for about 12 yrs with conservative 1.75* positive caster with 16:1 manual steering and only 215/60x15 tires. Drives great! I bought another set a couple weeks ago and put them on the shelf for my 64 Val. I've noticed the part sources for our old junk is getting...

Take a very close look at the torsion bar sockets where they enter the crossmember. Poke around, tap the metal surrounding the sockets. The sockets never fail, it's the metal they are welded into that twists out. I'll see if I can find an old pic.

That was my first thought too. A T-bar crossmember may look perfectly fine on the outside, paint and everything, but the crossmember rusts from the inside out. Water, even from washing the car, migrates down the inner fenders onto the top of the frame rails and into the rails and crossmember...

The key is when you get your new alignment, insist on getting as much positive caster as the tech can get. With stock components that may only be 1-1.5 degrees but that'll make a huge difference. Do not have them go by the factory specs. With good solid parts, you'll have a good driver! You...

Yeah, don't forget these cars were designed in the late 50's. When introduced in 1960, the Valiant had 13 X 4-1/2" wheels rolling on 6.50 X 13" tires. (165 X 13) That design carried right through the 60's. For instance, the spare tire well fits that tire nicely with a flat floor above the fiber...

It's easy to visually spot a 67 bayonet style idler. Only one tab coming off the K. The 68 and newer use double shear mounting with a top and bottom plate coming off the K member. With the A-body migrating from economy car in 1960 to a bigger sometimes performance car, they made things right...

Mopar Action did a write-up on this a couple issues ago. IIRC, Ehrenberg used later style right angle end links from a Ford pickup. I think he shortened the actual links and they ended up pretty short. Not much more than drilling a hole in the front LCA with a nut on the inside.

Oh no! Why are you considering using those? If your springs are sagging, that will only make it worse. And ruin your ride quality and handling. Don't install those on your car! Return them or throw them in the trash. If you need new shackles or shackle bushings, use correct factory style...

This company used to make rust repair kits for Mopars but not any longer. Mopar Archives - autorust.com I had a similar situation with my 69 cuda. The front rails rust from the inside out. The picture you show of the side of the rail tells all. That metal is paper thin and if you keep driving...

When installed, does the motor go towards the passenger side? I hope you post some installed pics.

The inner fenders are spot welded to the top of the shock towers in that location. Check the frame rails carefully. They rust from the inside out and can be paper thin. Especially where they kick up at the bottom.

All Mopars went to the larger sector box in model year 1973. An easy check is to measure the sector shaft diameter. You should be able to slip calipers between the pitman arm and casting. Small sector is 1-1/8" (1.13), large sector 1-1/4" (1.25). You can reuse every other steering component on...

Pennsylvania? Is the torsion bar crossmember in good shape? They rust from the inside out and the T-bar socket gradually starts to twist out until BANG! No anchor for the t-bar and you're on the ground.

Were the brakes operating well before you went off road? If they were then it's probable the accident has damaged something. Just a little background...drum brakes are self-energizing and can be tricky to get right. Contamination on shoes from brake fluid or rear axle lube can cause them to...

You really need to post more information. What are your goals for this car? What V8 do you intend to use? What are you going to be doing with this car? You do not HAVE to swap to discs but it's a safety issue. You'll be driving on the road with modern cars, good brakes, tires, ABS, all that...

That was my first thought too. If the RF is higher than the LF, lowering the RF torsion bar should raise the LR. Alignment guys like to measure from the fender lip to the ground (alignment rack) but of course there is the Chrysler way spelled out in the FSM. My 68 has a lean in the back too but...

I used Moog rubber strut rod bushings. Didn't have any issues.

Check with Michael's Automotive & Performance. 6162 Wooster Pike Rd. Medina 44256. I'm not sure if Mopar Mike does alignments in house but he can recommend someone. He's a Mopar guy and will understsnd. 10 years ago I had the alignment on my 68 Barracuda done at Parma Tire in Brunswick. I gave...

Check with: Firmfeel.com and Steerandgear.com for rebuild services Thompson (TRW), Federal and Saginaw were all used on Mopars. Saginaw is the best as it is quieter, more consistent and less leak prone. Different mounting brackets can be had from Bouchillonperformance.com

What was wrong with the black one? 2 basic variations. Large and small sector. All Mopars 1973 and newer are large sector. You could send or take your original down to Steer and Gear in Columbus for a rebuild. Steerandgear.com They most likely have one ready to go and you can just trade in...

A 71 Dart will have the smaller unless the steering box has been changed out. Your pitman arm can then be directly swapped to the Borgeson.

The only poly I used was front sway bar bushings and links. And rear shackle bushings. Everything else is new rubber, not rotted or beat out of shape. Pretty much what Autoxcuda says in post #7 is what I did roughly based on Tom Condran's book. I too used the Moog problem solver strut rod...

It may be better to stick with 67-72. I dont know for sure but the bumper mounting may be different between the two eras. The basic architecture is common between the two. There definitely were changes in the openings in the core supports. I used a 70 to replace a 69 and there were minor...

Hmmm. I think I went to H.S. with Bruce. Im also familiar with the green T-bucket. If you go to Laurel Square then you've seen my junk. Everybody will have their own opinion but I have 2 driveable a-bodies, a 64 and a 68. I completely rebuilt the 68 suspension and used no poly in the front end...