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They fixed up my 7box to like new..... i do believe theyll still do it for you. Certainly as easy as a phone call. :thumbsup:

I thought a folding matchbox was more like .020"?? Remember that from doing magneto coils on lawn mowers....

Don't hit bumps. :poke: What have you checked?? And why would you suspect the FI??

Looks like they are available everywhere;

Correct me if I'm wrong (cuz I probably am).... Wouldn't he want the race style regulator, if it's a strip car?? I do understand that one won't last at sustained low rpm.

Smells like hype? Maybe I'm wrong lol.....

Im sure this is the case, but arent they supposed to be buffered somehow, so they display slowly?? Resistor of some sort at the gauge end???

No....it means they go bad cuz the oil leaks out....takes a while. :usflag:

My coil is in the car with me on the race car..... Sometimes I like to touch the primary lead, you know to make sure i can still feel lol. I always assumed thats why MSD makes bulkhead connectors??? MSD Ignition 8211 MSD Firewall Feed-Thrus | Summit Racing

Well, T-O-D is a marking for Thermo-Disk, so thats some sort of fan switch or limit switch, in my experience. Maybe the part number comes up in the MyMopar parts lookup?? Also go there and check the wiring diagram for your application. What model Mopars used the NOX valve - Moparts Forums

No, I thought of that before I bought them, but yes the source voltage obviously was.... I assumed at the time that the rectifier?? or whatever still didn't really simulate battery supplied DC the same... still wary of the bulbs tho, and would bench test as I said to be positive....

Word to the wise.... whichever ones you get, make sure you set up a bench test for them before putting them in your car. I picked some up to replace the incandescents in a boiler status panel on a commercial job. Although the specs matched up, they didn't like the power supply and they all...

:popcorn: Do they look like a canister style replacement?? Or are they the iron-stack type (like a transformer)??

Agreed.... he makes no mention of battery cable condition or the existence of proper ground straps (to body) of car. Certainly could be just a bad main cable.

Is this a racecar?? I dont have any kind of retard set-up on my racecar..... I simply turn on the fuel, then crank...once its spinning good, i hit the ignition switch and BAM!!! Very easy on the starter that way.

I'd probably look to the door jamb switches first.... but anything that makes it to ground should surely blow a fuse??? Also, you have already said it really points to the radio correct??? Isnt the radio dead 100 percent without ignition key?? or wire is just to keep clock alive? if so...

If it's an old 7 box, its just screwed together..... Open it up and look (and sniff). Mine looked like a bomb went off in there.... Mine was'nt properly disconnected, battery was tho, and I did a little welding on the front stub. They repaired it anyway, relatively recently too.

I think i own an original one of these.... Is there something you want me to look for specificaly?? 1964 Plymouth Shop Manual - OEM Service / Repair Book (themotorbookstore.com) Oh wait i see....no cuda.... maybe you need this one?? 1964 Plymouth Barracuda Shop Manual Supplement 64 Repair...

You should be able to find the wiring diagram at the MyMopar.com site. Wiring – MyMopar

Depending on your wiring of course..... Can you crank it, then hit the ignition?? If so, not a biggie anyway

Any possibility neutral safety (or clutch depress switch if manual) is involved?? Loose, disconnected or damaged?? http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73DartA.jpg http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73DartB.jpg HTH, Lefty71

I may be wrong.... but i thought they did not, because of the wire sizes that the MSD calls for??

Slow blow is usually only called for when there's a motor involved. Most anything I've ever seen on a car would be regular fast-blow fuses. Slow blow would reduce nuisance trips, fast blow would protect the system better tho.... if you get nuisance trips, find the problem and repair it. HTH...

Really??!! I never knew that. Thank God they decided to use a buzzer instead of just having the horn be the key-in warning lol. :poke:

It's a Dodge and I left the hood open in the rain. Does that matter?? lol :poke:

Damn! No wonder all these Fridays keep going on by without a paycheck showin up. :lol:

Stock ignition on a '70 Dart is POINTS, so look there first. Possibly the distributor has rubbed a wire bare too, so look closely at the inner workings. You may find a dwell meter handy in setting new points. HTH, Lefty71

http://dave78chieftain.com/Ignition_Syste.html

What did these people do before the internet?? Write to Dear Abbey?

Maybe best to start charging them in fireproof steel boxes, like we used to use in school for wood shop rags, or arc welding stick butts?? I converted an old steel single tool box for the kids li-on batteries for the Traxxas, so the cord could come outside to plug them in.