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It depends. One has to determine what .15 seconds in the 1/4 is worth - what it takes to achieve it and what it actually costs in time and money. A lot of the "worth" depends on the rules you race under. The more restrictive the rules are, the more difficult it is to make "legal" changes for a...

The best info I've heard was from testing Chrysler did between a 727 and 904 in the '70's. With both transmissions and their respective converters built to the same specs and the vehicle weight adjusted for the different transmission weights, the 904 was about .15 seconds faster in the 1/4 mile...

OEM cars are usually built with compromises leaning towards "street manners", not meant to be "beat on" and with "comfortable" shifts. But there are different "duty" levels of transmissions. (i.e.: 904, 998, 999) I've always heard that heat is the most common cause of transmission failures...

I ran JW Trans. built 904s in my Dart for years without any trans parts breaking due to outright fatigue. The few trans failures I've had were due to driveline failures first resulting in broken sprag or broken trans cases. Best numbers 11.14 @ 117 with 1.47 60' @ 3,540 lbs footbraking. Usually...

340 cast crank engines were externally balanced also. But I don't know the size or weights of the weights used. A 340 cast crank definitely had less external weight on the converter and the balancer than a 360, so they will not interchange. I believe 340's went to cast cranks some time during...

I've had crank bolts leave impressions through paint on the converter but no dents in the converter unless I had a major driveline breakage. Clearance is tight. However, that doesn't look like an OEM crank bolt and they definitely don't come with washers.

It's easy to tell if it's a lock-up trans/converter. May have to get inside to confirm if it has the 2.74 low gear set. I don't think a lock-up will automatically :p have a low gear set but I'm not sure. Lock-ups started in the late '70's. JW Trans. in Rockledge, FL built my regular 904s with...

If you have a small block, have you considered a 904? Smaller drum, much less chance of it exploding. Personally after 40+ years I never had or saw a 904 blow a drum. But it can still have sprag failures due to the usual reasons. Also has the option of a 2.74 low gear and combo will be about .15...

Did you replace the seal under where the shift linkage attaches to the valve body (shift shaft)?

IMO in drag racing applications, regardless of the housing/casting numbers, the weakest point of an 8 3/4" are the ring & pinion teeth. #2 are the caps. #3 are OEM yokes & cheap u-joints. I believe numerically lower gears tend to be stronger because there are less teeth and they are bigger. 741...

This is the switch it's attached to. It is correct for your application but there are a couple of other obviously different ones which use different connections.

I have to disagree with HSDemon - The last year for an 8 3/4" rear in an A-body was 1972. That also had a 4" bolt pattern and the smaller brakes. The cars didn't need a 4 barrel engine to come with an 8 3/4", but it guaranteed it. There were 273 and 318 that could be found with them. Starting...

X3 - Even with frame connectors and roll barthat stiffen the chassis, a poly mount is as stiff as you should go. Even then, make sure it's not in a bind.

...or just keep it on jackstands, but low, and start at idle & go up a little and thru the gears. Save time and possible problems if something comes apart on the road.

904 passenger car tailshafts are the same. There may have been some short tailshaft versions in trucks. As for the low gear 904s, they started that around the same time as lock-up transmissions and it included V-8s. (Late 70s - early 80's.) But you have to know what to swap, especially if it's...

If they are all OEM Challenger & Satellite, the only differences I can think of would be LA vs /6 bellhousings. I believe /6 had some lighter duty internal components. Physically they will fit, but very early 904s and late 70's-'80's lock-up 904s would be different and can cause interchange...

A big block balancer wouldn't work at all. It would fit on the crank, but it would bind on the timing cover where the timing marks are because the BB balancer snout is shorter than on a SB.

That's definitely an early 360 balancer before they started casting it with weight out of the opposite side. I wonder if a 360 crank was cut to 340 specs or the balancer was used to help balance a 340 rotating assemble. Got the balancer or flywheel from that engine? This ought to be interesting.

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I'm guessing that the coarse spline pinions tend to be aftermarket, which may be cheaper to make. But I've seen it with other housings also. It usually says which spline it is in the sales ad.

There are stampings on the pan rail that can help tell what it is. But I'm not familiar with the codes.

Lock-ups started around 1978 in Torqueflites. 2.74 low gear sets in 904s started around 1978-1980. But I don't know the specific application details.

741 does have a smaller choice of performance gears. Staying with the A-body OEM brakes & bolt pattern? Upgrading the front brakes & suspension to handle the extra weight & power? (Including master cylinder.)

My 904's broke when something else let go first, like a u-joint or ring & pinion. Running mid-low 11's @ 3,540+ lbs & 1.47 - 1.53 60' times with the wheels in the air!

Most name gear manufacturers would be ok - Motive, U.S. Gear, Richmond, etc. The trick is finding a reasonably priced differential oriented local business. A 4 wheel drive shop might be a good start, but shop around. For cruising, you could get an 8 1/4 rear to rebuild while still driving, which...

Check the year of the 273 & trans. Early 904 converters had a smaller snout than 340 cranks and you couldn't just swap converters because the splines were different in the transmission. "True" triple valve springs are too much for a conventional flat tappet cam, unless they are doubles with a...

I agree with toolmanmike. OEM axles don't have much extra spline to work with. Aftermarket axles tend to have extended splines, but either way, measurements would have to be very precise to keep the axles from butting and/or not having enough spline engagement in the carrier. I believe minimum...

Be sure to include the u-joint size needed on the driveshaft end for the yoke. Probably 7260, but not something to take for granted.