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Order 8 3/4" A-body axles (If housing is OEM.) set up for B/E body bolt pattern (4.5") & brake assemblies (10"x2"). FYI - the drum register on the axles is different between A (Smaller on '72 & earlier.) and E/B body brake assemblies as well.

Master cylinders don't normally come with a pushrod. You have to reuse your original and removing it usually destroys the rubber grommet.

I've whittled them from an appropriately sized piece of rubber hose to fit the pushrod & M/C I.D.. But there are some M/C applications that don't have the corresponding groove inside.

Measure because some B-body brakes can be 11" and maybe C-body. Not sure about E-body.

B & E bodies, '76 & later F, M & J bodies & more will work, I'm sure. Seems there was something a little different on F/M/J brake assemblies, but just remember to buy shoes/parts for the particular car you get them off of. Make sure Dr. Diff know you are switching to the later model brakes...

If I don't find a reasonably priced assembly with the braided hose installed already, that's what I'd have to use. I'll look into the Russell brand jazak5 mentioned too. Thanks

So far I've found that Inline Tube has kits for different Mopar rear end housings. I was looking for only the pre-made T/splitter that accepts OEM solid lines. (The assembly is held by the screw-in vent tube.) Are there any other companies that have them? That's the only OEM rubber line I have...

You can also check at RockAuto. Once you get your part #'s, you can shop around (i.e.: Summit, local parts stores, etc.) RockAuto

You'll need the correct 2-bolt adapter to mate a later model aluminum master cylinder for an F-body with manual disc brakes. It still uses the manual brake pushrod. Not sure how or which distribution block fits into the set-up

I've always heard that disc brake calipers have bigger volumes than drum brake wheel cylinders so they require bigger bore master cylinders (disc reservoir is bigger than drum reservoir), but I've never had that combo. I use a lightweight Cardone Aspen/Volare manual disc/drum M/C 10-1821 on my...

New rotors came without the studs?:shock:

Not using that size MC, but the theory is the bigger the brakes and pistons, the bigger bore and volume MC is needed.

You'll need to check the application. I believe some early Dakota M/C's had that reservoir and may have had smaller bores. Some FWD cars also used the sloped reservoir and I've heard conflicting opinions on using them in RWD drag applications. Disc brakes are suppose to like bigger bores because...

1822 and 11822 are for power brake applications 1821 and 11821 are for manual brake applications Both are listed for 1978 Dodge Aspen. These and similar numbers are used by several of the companies that these are labeled for. I have the manual brake version reman. by Cardone on my Dart with...

The "R" is probably a designation for riveted shoes as opposed to bonded. Anything else with different dimensions and applications would have a different part number.

Some Aspens and Volares had manual disc brakes and the aluminum 2-bolt master cylinder number used by Cardone & others is 10-1821 for those applications. I have that on my race car and it works fine at the track with the OEM combo. I have the original proportioning valve as well. Not sure how it...

No. Bolt pattern, width as well as the drum "register" (round raised circle in the middle that centers it) is all different. Backing plates have a different offset to work with everything as well. You can get an aftermarket axle company to machine your replacement axles with a 4.5" pattern to...

I forgot what year, but they have rebuilt aluminum master cylinders for power as well as manual disc brakes for Aspens/Volares. They don't come with the plastic reservoir, but they are easy enough to get from a junk yard. The plastic tanks are molded specifically for the application (small...

Show a pic of the face of the drum. Axles have to have the wheel bearing position machined for the brakes you are using - OEM A-body 1 3/4" backing plate/shoe/drum combo. Or the wheel bearing needs to be positioned for the 2" backing plate/shoe/drum combo. Does that help in figuring out...

You'll need to try them out with a wheel or something because they could be 4 1/2" and 4 3/4" for GM wheels! Hard to tell off hand.

I bought some Aerospace Components vented rotors for my 3,500 lb cars but haven't had time to install them yet. :(

But the brakes won't work unless he uses axles with the B/E body big bolt flanges, bearing offset and they are the correct length to fit the A-body housing. He didn't say what axles he has or plans on getting.

Where are you getting the axles from? Everything big bolt pattern OEM is too long to fit an A-body housing and if you get them aftermarket, you need to tell the manufacturer the housing you'll be using as well as the brakes. The bearing location has to be machined correctly for the brakes being...

Cardone and a few other rebuilders have part # 10-1821 which is an aluminum master cylinder for manual disc Aspens and Volare's. Forgot exactly what year. You'll need an adapter and a plastic resevoir with the 2 screw-on caps. I got some off of a truck for the extra capacity and they are more...

That OEM set-up is a good combo. You'll get the most out of your money restoring it. No sense in getting over your head with bigger and fancier stuff especially since it sounds like you have a long way to go overall. Coincidently, I'm servicing that same brake set-up on my race car prepping for...

The 1 3/4" drums have a small "register" that the drums center on. It's the round, raised area in the middle. As mentioned, the 1 3/4" drum/backing plate assembly has a particular offset, which works with the axle bearing position that is unique to small bolt pattern A-body 8 3/4" axles. 2x10...

Some 1973 and newer vehicles that had disc brakes were available either with a manual master cylinder or with a brake booster. I guess he wants to know if that was the case in 1972 and older vehicles because he'd like to set it up without a power/vacuum booster.

I "think" that any of the 10"x2" brake drums/assemblies from other rears will bolt on. (i.e.: '73 & up disc brake A-bodies, 9 1/2" rears, Aspens, Diplomats, etc.) But I'd feel better is someone could confirm that.

You can have the axle machined for the OEM early A-body bearing location and small drum register and keep the brake assemblies you have, but redrill the drums for the bigger bolt pattern If the axle is machined for the E & B body bearing locations and large drum register, you will have to use...

Being on a drag car, it certainly wasn't for sway bar clearance! The hoses are a bit stretched when the wheel is turned all the way even though I "tweaked" the metal tubes. But the F-body hoses will come in handy when replacing them. Thanks guys.