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I've road tripped with cars that left their mark overnight. Just check the fluid level when you get gas. You'll know how much it uses/leaks after two stops. Unless it's pouring out, it shouldn't b an issue with the proper level in the pan..

Dana 60 it it were me.

I'll be installing a MVB, so it would be a good time to do the shaft seal as cheap insurance against leaks.

What's the easy way to remove the seal under the car?

A leaky fix for the leak. :BangHead:

There's a shop like that near me I've used and sent customers to, always had great results. Thanks for reminding me about them!

I get a machine shop not wanting to do it, they like engines, and heads, etc. Kinda surprised the suspension place didn't want to, maybe they specialize in bolt ons, and not fab work. Find a guy/place that does welding, he/they could turn it around quickly.

It's worth checking out.

That trans has the beefier planetaries, and may have better bands in it. Swap the tail shaft and housing and you should be good.

With a full manual valve body, the kickdown is eliminated, you shift into and out of every gear, hence the name full manual.

I installed some gears outside under a truck based off of tech supports recommendation of whatever grouping of shims. Got it together, and brought it to a shop, it was right on. Never heard a noise from that set of gears. No, I'm not an expert, more of a hack that got lucky?

I have 3.23's and 3.55's and I like them both.

Advanced Drive Line in Minneapolis.

What is it in?

I did sir. Got to my overnight stop just fine and made it home the next day as planned. Was a fun trip, just wish I had more time to stop and check out some of the things along the way.

Which case is the photo of, the early or later trans?

I'm looking at buying a rebuilt valve body for my Dart and the seller is asking me to check the holes and possible slot in the trans case to make sure it's correct. This style: Or this: I never thought about it before, but different years had different parts. My transmission (mid to...

I have 2 axles, the first being a 4.10 sure grip (worn) 489 case paid $450. The second one is a 3.23 open 489 case paid $500. You see axles for $900-$100 complete that are for sale forever in my area.

Factory console shifter? I have a forward pattern MVB but have a column shift.

I'd use whatever the car came with, no use running wires if you don't need to. Good info fishy68, I'm just not that technical, yet.

I took out my 1 switch from the old tranny (66) and replaced the 3 switch in the newer tranny (not sure of the year, think 69) with the 1 switch and have no problems shifting, no binds. Car never had reverse lights since I've had it but everything worked fine. Have a manual valve body now still...

And get rid of the pro stock/pro mod look?

Or, if you have fab skills, save a ton of money by switching to... a b body rear. Cheap and plentiful. Or c body axles. I had to pretty much give mine away in the past.

That's a bummer. As stated before, at least you didn't get injured and the car is ok. Sucks you have to wait.

I realized that I never did anything to the trans case when I swapped valve bodies. I just installed the steel cup and the blocker rod. Time for a test drive.

Oops, Thanks go out to Trailbeast then. I have to finish rebuilding the front end, so I'll climb under an extra time to adjust the line pressure. Can't wait to drive again.

I believe it's a 2600-2800 stall. Thanks for pointing out the location for the adjuster.

How do I do that? This is all Greek to me. Mad- don't know what brand. It has six bolts holding the plate on the top that goes against the trans, the sticker had four. Some engraved numbers, I forgot to take a pic of them before I installed it so that doesn't help.

1. I've thought about it! 2. How would I go about checking that? Do I need a gauge somewhere inline coming out of the trans? Have yet to get inside deeper than a valve body. Is it somet and I can do myself or do I need to take it to a shop? Thanks everyone for the input. I forgot to...

I put a manual valve body in my car but it hurts my girlfriend's back when we drive it (she has a fused back). I am wondering if it is ok to reuse the fluid out of my transmission that has only 30-40 miles on it when I switch back to the stock valve body. I don't want to waste $20+ on the red...