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Frame mounted steering gear.

That's a FAT Jack Russell! A big block with aluminum heads, intake, water pump and housing is pretty close to small block weight.

Sounds like now's the time to order, so you can enjoy it next year.

Something good to come out of a Prius!

I almost blew up my engine because I worked on it at night, don't so that anymore, unless I'm in a brightly lit up shop.

Got mine from Jeg's.

I got the Mopar shocks for use with SS springs, and they fell right in. Buy right the first time.

Is there any threads sticking out the other side? That will give you an idea. Or take the bolt out and measure, that way you know for sure.

Thanks Straightline. I've had it in my head that I need the 73 up linkage for over a decade. Steering geometry or something like that. Good thing I've got linkage for both styles. I guess I'm all set then. Just need new bushings and I can build my replacement k frame suspension engine combo and...

Going 68 k frame, big block, tti headers, so I need a manual box. I picked up 2 manual h xes some time ago and thought they were the correct ones, that's why I'm trying to determine what part number boxes are correct for 73 and later.iThe steering linkage I have is off a 73 and later Duster. At...

I'm going to be upgrading my 67 Dart to 73 up disc brakes. I have almost everything I need, but am not sure the manual steering gear is going to work. I have the 2537349 box. I only found 2 eBay listings that said it was for 61-74 cars. I found a parts interchange but it only went to 74 and had...

I'm glad I bought mine almost 20 years ago!

It might not have a sway bar. Lots didn't.

I'm changing to make more room, not for reliability. I'm also changing from column to floor shift. The manual column is longer but you can buy an adapter if you can't find a column or don't want to replace it. The gear box also needs to be swapped out, obviously.

I took the hubs apart and checked them out. I did get one hollow sounding noise when first tapped the pass side inner race, then it was a solid feel/noise. If it did move I don't think it was anything significant in terms of how far it moved, maybe 1-2 thousandths. The bearings sat on the...

As I've said before, the parts were correct matched set of bearings and races, races seated, followed FSM to the letter, proper seal. Others on the C body site said to preload the bearings (never needed to before) by tightening the nut til the wheel is hard to turn by hand and back off then...

Thought I had it kicked, but it came back. I'm going to crank 'em down super tight, back 'em off and test. If that don't work I'll triple check the hub. If nothing seems wrong, I'll order a set of Timken bearings for it. The end is in sight? Scott

Spindle nuts seemed to have fixed the problem! I took it for the same drive as before and checked the nuts when I got back and they were tight. Thanks for the help everyone!

Thanks for pointing that out. Didn't seem bad, but they were cheap to replace and I learned that you are supposed to replace them every time you remove them. Now time for a test drive. Scott

Redid the bearings one side at a time with the same nut and washer on each side. Not stripped, but new nuts should be cheap enough to get and confirm or cancel it out. I'm going to take the hubs and check that the races are fully seated to the shoulder of the pockets they fit in. The bearings...

Not sure about the preload part. How do you do that? Packed bearings with grease. Used FSM procedure as stated. New bearings and races. Used the slotted washer. Races properly seated. Castle nut and cotter pin in place.

I installed a new front suspension in my 66 Polara and when I took it out for a road test, it had a vibration. I had new tires (for the car, but nos bias ply) and had it aligned. It was fine at first then the vibe started. Checked the tires and they checked out ok. I had previously checked the...

I agree it's the easiest, but I'm a cheapass and it's cheaper to rebuild my free to me 67 column, by a long shot. If the OP is planning on getting a manual column down the road, depending on when, it could be an unnecessary expense. I have the correct column, so I'm biased.

The diagram is correct. I just did this and that's the final location mine were in after alignment.

How heavy the car is dictates what springs. I'm keeping my slant 6 torsion bars, don't remember the diameter.