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I guess I'm one of the few people that actually bought one of the 5 speed kits. I had no problems during installation and have had no issues with the transmission or any related components. Keisler's customer service at the time was great, work was done promptly, and support was courteous and...

I received an e-mail from Keisler Engineering today. They are filing for bankruptcy. The e-mail reads like this: Dear JOHN Last Thursday January 16, I ceased operations of Keisler Engineering Inc by filing it into a Chapter 7 Liquidation Bankruptcy. This was a sad...

You might want to check the filler tube O-ring as well as the filler tube itself for a crack. The tube often cracks in the area just beneath the O-ring.

First thing you can do is jack up the car so both rear wheels are off the ground. In neutral rotate a wheel forward, if the opposite wheel moves the same direction you have a sure grip, if it rotates the opposite way you don't. To check the gear ratio, while jacked up make a mark at 12 oclock on...

I used one like that, it came from Chrysler and was almost like hard plastic. It worked where nothing else would stop a leak. It was also reusable, pricey though IIRC it was just under $20.00. I would recommend it in a case where a regular gasket would not seal.

I've got a TKO600 behind a 500 c.i. 440 and regularly run it up to 6000 rpm with no issues with shifting. I've had it for several years now. I think you'll be fine especially since you've dynoed your engine and know exactly when it's making peak hp. I too am running a 3.91 gear. With a 28 inch...

I used a company called Victory Driveshafts, they had any material you could want. I believe they are located in the midwest, Michigan or perhaps Iowa.

The bolt will point straight down. The front of the torsion bar will install in the shaft that the lower control arm pivots on.

Find the bolts as moparkid805 said. Just remember to take the weight off the suspension (jack the car up) when making adjustments. Park on a flat surface and once you`ve cranked up the bolts (a few rotations at a time), let the car down, jostle the suspension some and then take a measurement on...

If you want to keep your 727 then perhaps Gear Vendors might be a good choice? I think the Keisler OD auto trans is a Chevy piece.

The early transmissions had some trouble jamming when speed shifted, but by the latest reports those problems are all taken care of.

I`ve got the TKO600 (5 spd. manual) behind my 440 and I love it! It was the single most dramatic mod I`ve done to the car and I can`t say enough about it. The best mod yet!

If my memory serves me correctly the bearing with the snap ring provides a lip for the flange. The other bearing without a snap ring comes with its own flange.

If you don`t think you`re going to be making huge horsepower then I would redrill them the way Crackedback described, using a 1/2 threaded stud. Moser does it and they`re fast and affordable.

The fundamental difference is Green Bearings are a sealed roller (round) bearing and OEM bearings are open tapered cone bearings.

I wish I could answer that with authority but I just can`t. It may be because the 489 case used a crush sleeve versus a hard spacer. It could be that the sure-grip unit in the 489 case was a cone-style versus a clutch style in the 742, or it could be simply the failure rate of one or the other...

He probably used those axles to get the 4.5" bolt circle. Rather than buy aftermarket axles, a lot of people will respline C-body or truck axles in order to get the large bolt pattern and save money. There are very few wheels for the 4" bolt so changing over to the large bolt pattern allows for...

The differences in the cases 741, 742, and 489, is the pinion shaft diameter. The 741 has the smallest at 1.375" , the 742 is the next size up at 1.75" (but is straight rather than tapered) which some people prefer, and the 489 is the largest at 1.875". I`ve seen a lot of power in front of a 741...

That should make for some sweet holeshots! :burnout:

Dave, I never knew that Tremec had a 3.27 first gear? AWESOME! Is it a 500?

3.91 here but I`m running a 5 speed with a 2.87 first gear and a .64 fifth gear so there`s no problem with either stop light to stop light or cruising the interstate.

3.91 here.

You were very lucky to find one. Those have to be pretty rare as far as driveshafts go. Here`s the 411 on the 67-69 driveshafts for 383 Barracudas w/727 auto: Part#-2852216 Diameter-3" Length-44.88" U-joint-7290 4 speed cars are a little different: Part#-2852206 Diameter-2.75"...

I had one made by Mancini Racing a number of years ago. They had many different levels of quality at the time. The u-joints are the large ones (7290s).

I`m using Moser axles and so far, so good. I can vouch for Moser`s customer service, they`re simply the best. I haven`t dealt with Strange, I`ve heard many testimonials about the excellent quality of their products but I`ve never personally worked with them.

I bought one of Keislers kits many years ago and I`m very happy with it. It was considerably cheaper then. :D

I would guess an 8.25 could handle an engine with 300 h.p. without a problem.

Moser.........good stuff.

Your best bet would be to find an A-body 8.75" rear end from 65-72. That way it would simply be a bolt in project. You can use a B-body rear end but you`ll have to move the spring perches and select rims with additional backspacing to make up for the added length of the rear end.

I have a set with the snap ring. It provides the lip that the axle retainer flange abuts. I`m not sure how the one without a snap ring is designed. I`m guessing you must use the stock axle retainer flange???