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Probably a good spreadbore type carb like a Thermoquad will be decent with gas mileage (as much as you could expect) and still give you plenty of get up and go when you need it.

Set your timing as advanced as you can without spark knock, and as someone mentioned earlier use the vacuum advance on your distributor. A good spreadbore type carburetor would likely help a lot too (vacuum operated secondaries). Simple things like a front end alignment, good radial tires...

To get a little better mileage on the cheap I would install a set of 3.23 gears in the rear and buy a vacuum gauge. Drive with one eye on the rode and the other on the vacuum gauge.

Make certain your timing is correct as well as your mechanical and vacuum advance.

Think of 34* as 2.125 inches from 0 on the dampener/timing cover. If 0 is actually 5* retarded then he`s been setting his timing closer to 2.75" from actual zero (-5*) or closer to 39*btdc. It is a bit confusing.

Yeah those factory boxes are only good for about 6k. If you find that to be the problem I would go with the chrome box. I`ve personally had problems with the orange boxes and have read of many others that have had issues with them too.

I would think your fuel supply is ample with the 5/16 line. I was thinking like some of the others about valve float but I would definitely check things like timing, proper advance, plug condition/gap and reluctor gap.

I had one in a 360 back in the 70`s. I believe you can probably find better grinds today but if you`re set on getting that particular cam, it would work well with your combo.

That first cam you tried looked like the mother of all motor home cams. Lol! It`s not too hard to make some big numbers when you start with a lot of cubic inches. I have a 496 based on a 440 and I love my stroker motor, there`s nothing like the feeling of those G`s planting your *** in the seat...

I think I`ve seen offset Woodruff keys for cranks somewhere but I can`t remember where now.

It probably is a leak at the headers and not a rocker arm/lifter issue. Since you said the sound abated some when you tightened the header bolts I would pursue that first. You can go with another gasket or try doubling up gaskets. I can say from experience, some of those Comp Cam grinds are...

That`s just the kind of feedback I was looking for. Thank you Donnie.

It`s a 500 c.i. engine with 11-1 compression but even with that I didn`t think it would act right on the street, the powerband is in the 3500- 6800 range.

Has anybody had any experience with this Comp Cam # XTQ294S-8 part no. 23-362-5, especially for use on the street? Specs are: Duration - 294/299 Duration @ .050" - 264/270 Lift - .567/.579 Lobe lift- 0.378/0.386

I did the same thing with the fittings on my pump, drilled them out to the max.

I`m running it on my 440-496 stroker motor. It`s been a while since I installed it but if I remember correctly it flows over 100 gph, I think about 110 but it may be as high as 120 gph. It`s at a reasonable pressure too, somewhere around 7psi., so I don`t have to use a regulator. Many serious...

I run only a Carter hi-volume mechanical pump on my big stroker motor with a 3/8" line and pick-up from tank to carbs. It will adequately empty my gas tank in a hurry without any shortcomings in delivery.

In any event get an itemized list of services and parts from any engine builder before the first dollar is exchanged. That sounds like a ton of money just for a rebuild. Your engine builder is either hitting the happy pipe or he`s going to build one super 340. What does $8500.00 buy from this...

Glad to hear you made it through that without anything major. As added assurance, it`s always good to put a little Loc-tite on the cam gear bolt/s .

It`s likely.

Yeah, dual planes offer a wide range of throttle response especially more at lower rpm (where most street driving occurs) whereas single planes are more for wide open throttle and really perform well in the upper rpm range. Unless you`re doing more racing than street cruising I would suggest...

I know the 440-6 pack cars used a solenoid on the throttle lever to close the plates when shutting off the engine. It seems like there was a 340 that had the solenoid too. You might try finding one of those if nothing else works.

Yeah, I don`t know how those guys get away with that, my Barracuda is 10.8-1 and with 93 octane and 38* total timing I get both detonation and dieseling. I`ve always had to run a mixture of Cam2 with my gas to keep from spark knocking. I could probably get away with less timing but the car likes...

How about using a higher octane fuel, that should stop the dieseling when you shut off the engine.

The BFG`s look good but suck for traction. Like the guys said a set of MT ET radials will help a lot. Other things help like clamping together the front section or your leaf springs, moving your battery to the trunk, replace your V8 torsion bars with /6 bars, long shocks in the rear, 40,000+...

Interesting story guys, I`ve always heard the 270* duration thing too.

Sounds great George but I wouldn`t let moper get away if he still wants to visit Friday.

He must have been working on those Fords and Chevys. Lol! :-D

Exactly, what am I missing here???

waggin.........now you`ve lost me????